Talking Watches: With Adam Victor, Vintage Collector And Dealer
As you watch this, there’s a pretty good chance that I’m sitting with Adam Victor at Greats of Craft in New York City’s Sutton Place, having a bagel and a coffee or maybe a beer in the afternoon, and chatting about one of the watches you see in this video. It’s become a habit for us and a respite for me in the busyness of day-to-day life.
We talk about family, life, the weather – everything you’d catch two retired 80-year-old New Yorkers gabbing about with their loose two-tone Datejusts jangling off their wrists (except Adam always wears something slightly more interesting). Then we’ll chat about watches, look at movements, fawn over things we’ve seen, things we can’t afford, or things we’d love to find someday. So, it’s my distinct pleasure to bring a slice of that to you on Hodinkee. This one is, as they say, for the old heads.
His ability to find rare watches is one of the things that impresses me the most about Adam Victor. He’s the quintessential vintage hunter in a way that you don’t see much of anymore. Sure, there are things any good dealer could find. They’re the things that, albeit rare, people know exist. It just takes a little effort to know who has what. But finding something esoteric and important that no one knows about, plus having the knowledge to know what you’ve found, is still a rare skill in this world. His collection reflects all that and more.
While researching a story a few years back, I started talking to Victor and found out he lived one block north of me in New York. We got to know each other better on our trips to Monaco for the Monaco Legend Group auctions, where he was Managing Partner for two years. Monaco is special because of how much dealing and trading is done over the dinners at Crazy Pizza. Seeing someone like Victor get giddy about buying a rare watch has been infectious and validating.
Previously, Victor had a career in fashion, working as an executive in the luxury apparel industry for 20 years before making a professional leap into watches as a dealer in 2019 and joining Christie’s as Senior Watches Consultant in 2021 after 30 years as a watch collector. He’s also a passionate collector of art, furniture, and more. It’s an example of how good taste can extend past the bounds of just watches if you’re open to learning. Victor is the opposite of someone who seeks the spotlight, which is endearing in and of itself, but most important to me, he’s one of the nicest people I’ve ever met in the watch space (and I don’t say that lightly).
In today’s episode of Talking Watches, I can nearly guarantee you’ll learn something. Actually, you’re bound to learn a whole lot. But more importantly, I think you’ll walk away with a new appreciation for all the different ways you can love watches of all shapes, sizes, styles, and eras and still be true to yourself. So, without further ado, let’s dive into Talking Watches with Adam Victor.
Bulova Prototype For U.S. Navy
This watch was a contract-ordered watch by U.S. military underwater demolition teams who needed a purpose-built dive watch. Bulova had a contract to fulfill orders for the military but the U.S. Navy and the Bureau of Ships had a ton of requirements. Waterproofness, rotating bezel, easy-to-operate crown. Well, unfortunately Bulova failed miserably the first time. Eventually they got it right and the U.S. Navy wanted more. But Bulova decided they weren’t interested anymore. This one is one of the few remaining examples and one of two that came from the original owner or their family. It also served as the inspiration for a recent reissue from Bulova.
Patek Philippe Ref. 570 In Steel With Three Tone Breguet Dial
While he might have started as a military watch guy and have a wide-ranging collection, if there’s one watch I associate with Victor, it’s this one. I think he wore it so many times over coffee that I started to wonder, “Is this guy really just daily wearing a steel Breguet 570?” Well, he wears other things and certainly doesn’t beat this one up, but it’s a fantastic example of classic Patek Philippe and of Victors love of classic Calatravas. And if it looks familiar, it’s also basically the exact inspiration for the later ref. 5196P from Patek, with a three-tone dial. This is also the first time this example has been seen publicly.
Oversized Longines 13ZN With Black Dial
Longines had a moment a few years ago, but it seems like the average person in the vintage world has largely moved on. So you might be surprised that in a small community of collectors, the love of Longines never died. Chronographs with the legendary 13ZN movement dominate the top of collectability and command top dollar, though they usually trade privately. Our story on the movement, published in 2016, is a major part of why I’m in watches today, and I’ve never seen two more outstanding examples of the iconic chronograph. In addition to the fantastic movement, this oversized version with a black galvanic snail dial has everything you’d want in a vintage chronograph.
Unique Waterproof Ref. 4270 Longines 13ZN With White Dial
Sometimes, you just get a feeling about watches that don’t make much sense – even if you don’t know much about them – and if that happens, you should probably steer clear. Even if you knew a little (or a lot) about Longines, you’d be excused if it felt like a Breguet numeral, white-dialed 13ZN, with a waterproof ref. 4270 case (the only known screw-down tre tacche caseback example) doesn’t pass the smell test. And you’d probably be correct in every case – no pun intended – except this one. From the case to the dial, this watch is long-documented among collectors, tracing its history back to an early employee of Longines. It’s only been published once before in an obscure article about mushroom pushers, and now we get to talk about it.
Quartet Of Cloisonné Dial Watches
Like every good collector, Victor spent as much time as he could attending every auction preview he could, and it didn’t take long for him to fall in love with the art of cloisonné enamel. Eventually, he realized that the same artists works that grace the dials of vintage million-dollar Patek and Rolex watches also made the dial of brands like Eska, Movado, and others. It’s a period you just can’t get back, even if there is great enamel work being done today. And on top of it all, Victor is one of the few people I know who can look at enamel work and tell with some accuracy which the artist did it.
Audemars Piguet World Time From 1943
Here’s a curious world time from Audemars Piguet that Victor chased for years. It’s never been published before, either. With the gorgeous dial matching the gold case, massive subdials, and teardrop lugs, it’s just a plain gorgeous watch. It sold in 1943 and stayed there in two different families before Victor picked it up a few years ago. The fact that it’s a world time is comical in the best way possible. Looking at the right subdial, you’ll see the 24 different time zones listed. Notice anything missing? Well, watch the video and find out the whole story.
Audemars Piguet Calendar Watch From 1926
Another Audemars, another watch that’s never been seen publicly. Are you starting to get a theme? Victor can find anything great, and this calendar watch in white gold is truly special. Funny enough, it sat around for 10 years until it eventually sold in 1936 to Bittman in St. Moritz. The date is engraved in hard enamel, and it’s one of nine in this configuration. Only two are known, both documented by Audemars Piguet in their Complicated Watches book.
Audemars Piguet Ref. 5513 From 1949
This amazing ref. 5513 (no, not that 5513 from Rolex) hasn’t been seen – okay you get the picture. But it represents a specific era of Audemars that’s still coveted by old-school collectors. Again, it’s not a perpetual or an annual calendar; it’s a “full calendar.” But its a great example of the development of calendar watches for AP – something that the brand has become known for.
Pair Of Pocket Watches From 1939
Yes, people still collect pocket watches, like this beautiful platinum ultra-thin from Audemars Piguet and the Agassiz World Time beside it. As Victor puts it, there’s incredible value for the beauty of these watches and if they were wrist watches, you’d have to pay a massive amount more. Both are from 1939 and both stunning in their own ways. Even if you’re not going to wear them around, there’s still a lot to love.
Vacheron Constantin From 1941
Like any good vintage lover (and dealer) Victor makes his rounds to all the auction previews hunting for special pieces that might fly under the radar. Sometimes, you’re not the only one to notice something is special. But if you’re lucky, you might be able to pick up something like this rare “top wind” Vacheron with a black galvanic dial. Yes, it’s a bit small (it uses a movement from a ladies pocket watch that was reused), but it has an incredible presence on the wrist because of the bold black dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Perpetual Calendar From 1935
What do you do when you come across a watch where the dial isn’t signed, the movement is signed, and there’s basically no information about it to be had but your gut says you’re holding something extraordinary? Well, sometimes, it’s worth taking a leap of faith in hopes that you discover you’re right. In this case, Victor bought this small, tonneau wristwatch at an auction and through research and contacts with the folks at Jaeger-LeCoultre, he was able to determine that this watch houses one of four perpetual calendar movements made by the brand in the era. Just watch the video to hear how special this really is.
Richard Mille RM 67-02
This is one of the most outside-the-box watches in Victor’s collection. You could be excused for excusing this as a hype watch, but by now, you know Victor would never be swayed by hype. But on the back of one cool tonneau-shaped watch here’s something completely different. I remember when Victor told me he was going to California to pick up a watch, and I “would never guess what it was.” I threw out some guesses, knowing a few things he’s been trying to get there over the years. Wrong every time. When he showed up to coffee at our old spot, I told him, “All right, show it to me.” He’s right; I would have never guessed. But he has a great explanation of what makes this watch so great (and he’s not at all wrong). And if a guy like Adam Victor loves the RM 67-02, you know it’s great.
Hodinkee