Staff Picks: Our 40 Favorite Watches On The Market Right Now

The list you see here was compiled – after great deliberation – by the editors and staffers of Hodinkee to demonstrate how we view watch collecting today.

Of all the timepieces currently in production, these are the 40 we think matter most. The ones we’d buy ourselves or recommend to our friends.

They’re watches that stand for something or represent a certain superlative – for instance, the best chronograph. The most coveted design piece. The most badass diver. The strongest value proposition.

The Hodinkee 40 recognizes modern classics at every price point, as well as innovations that continue to push the industry forward. Prices start at $50 and go all the way up to $1 million. From quartz movements to mechanical wonders to the undisputed top-of-the-line smartwatch, our selections represent the breadth of contemporary collecting.

The only limitations we placed on ourselves when making the list were that: (1) every watch is currently in production, and (2) none are a numbered limited edition. With these restrictions we had to exclude a number of our favorites, but we wanted the list to be useful – watches that are actually on the market, right now. Sure, some are hard to get. But every one is worth knowing about.

We plan to update this list once or twice a year, as new releases blow our minds. That way it’s a living document – you can bookmark it or share it, and know it’s always up to speed with our evolving tastes and the vagaries of the market.

One more thing: You’ll notice this list is in alphabetical order. That’s because we want your help ranking the Hodinkee 40. There’s a poll at the end of this article. Please vote. In April, we’ll reveal the results and crown the people’s champ.

With no further ado, the inaugural Hodinkee 40.

It just might be the world’s best modern chronograph

No, it’s not as historically important as the Datograph, but the 1815’s slimmed-down profile means it’s more wearable. In 2017, Lange introduced a white gold version combined with a black dial, the 1815 we’d been waiting for all along. If you’re the type of person who’s regularly looking at high-end chronographs, this white metal/black dial combination is exactly what makes your heart – and savings – turn to mush. And with the 1815 Chronograph, the aesthetics are only half the story. Flip the watch over and you’ll see Lange’s caliber L951.5, the finest serially produced manual-wind chronograph being made today. It’s got all the technical goodies you’d expect – column wheel, vertical clutch, jumping minute counter – but it’s mostly discussed because it looks so damn good. Aficionados say the movement’s depth makes it look like a mini-city, and it’s one I wouldn’t mind getting lost in. –Tony Traina

The white gold Lange 1815 chronograph measures 39.5mm by 11mm thick. The manual-wind caliber L951.5 features 60 hours of power reserve. For more, visit A. Lange & Söhne.

The smartest smartwatch ever made

Sometimes things are popular for a good reason. Adele has a great voice. Cheeseburgers are delicious. The Apple Watch is a useful tool that makes a lot of people’s lives easier. Last year’s Apple Watch Ultra built on what worked in previous models and added a handful of features – many useful (better battery life, temperature sensors, emergency siren) and some frivolous (new faces!) – which is kind of the crux of watch enthusiasm, no? In an industry where product changes can sometimes be as baffling as they are frustrating, the Apple Watch pushes us forward to places no timepiece has gone before. –Nora Taylor

The Apple Watch Ultra features a titanium case measuring 49mm. MSRP: $799. For more, visit Apple.

The integrated bracelet icon that needs no introduction

Nowadays, you can find countless variations of the Royal Oak. In 1972, there was only one: the “Jumbo.” Today, it’s still the most important Royal Oak, if not the most important sport watch, full stop. In 2022, Audemars Piguet updated and improved the Royal Oak Jumbo for its 50th anniversary, introducing the 16202. The reference didn’t bring dramatic changes, but when we’re talking about the Royal Oak that’s not what we want anyway. AP added a new, modern caliber with the specs we’ve come to expect from a sport watch, but kept the external dimensions the exact same. If you were pressed to choose only one modern AP, this is still the one. –Danny Milton

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01 measures 39mm x 8.1mm, and 50m of water resistance. MSRP: $33,200. For more, visit Audemars Piguet.

This one’s for the ladies…and the fellas

Audemars Piguet sure knows how to deliver on the unisex watch front. When this 34mm black ceramic watch was released back in the summer of 2021, it changed the game for all genders. Finally, a watch that was thoroughly modern in execution, yet conveniently sized for all of us who prefer things on the smaller side – a compact, jet-black, all-ceramic watch, complete with the elegantly slim caliber 5800, supplied by Vaucher. Let’s hear it for form AND function. If it weren’t a limited edition, the Carolina Bucci limited edition – another 34mm black ceramic Royal Oak, but with a subtle rainbow dial, might’ve been on this list. Every female collector I know is completely enamored with it. –Malaika Crawford

The Black Ceramic Royal Oak Ref. 77350CE.OO.1266CE.03.A measures 34mm x 8.8mm thick and has an MSRP of $53,000. For more, visit Audemars Piguet.

SuperQuartz is just plain super

A true ’80s baby, the Breitling Aerospace launched as a quirky quartz take on the traditional pilot’s watch style. The modern Aerospace EVO is a souped-up Chronograph with a minute repeater (surprise!), countdown timer, second time zone, alarm, and calendar. Still quartz-powered (though way more normal-looking in today’s landscape) the Aerospace is powered by Breitling’s chronometer-certified SuperQuartz caliber, which Breitling says is 10 times more accurate than standard quartz. Chock full of features, long-lasting, and designed to look like nothing else in the lineup, this model may not be as famous as its Breitling siblings. But in our minds the Aerospace is still a star. –Nora Taylor

The Breitling Aerospace features a titanium case measuring 43mm and uses a SuperQuartz movement with a chronograph, day, date, countdown timer, second time zone, alarm, and minute repeater. For more, visit Breitling.

The world’s thinnest perpetual calendar

Few brands have been able to take a watch and make it a platform for a singular groundbreaking achievement. For Bulgari and the Octo Finissimo, breaking records is just another day at the office. It all started in 2014, when Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon. Today it’s 2021’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar that feels like the standard-bearer. Just 5.8mm thick, it features an automatic in-house movement that clocks in at just 2.75mm tall – and that ruthlessly knocked Audemars Piguet off the top spot for the thinnest perpetual calendar, a title it’s held ever since. With unmistakable design language, titanium case, and an integrated bracelet, the watch wears comfortably and shockingly light. And you literally cannot top its horological prowess. –Mark Kauzlarich

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar has a titanium case measuring 40mm x 5.8mm. It’s powered by Bulgari’s automatic in-house perpetual calendar caliber BVL 305, 2.75mm thick. MSRP: $71,000. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

Drop-dead gorgeous

I dare you to find a watch sexier than the Bulgari Serpenti. The yellow gold double-twirl wins every time. From the way its sinuous form grips your arm to the ribbed texture of the Tubogas bracelet and the subtle flash of diamonds on the bezel, the sum of these qualities just exude heady Italian glamor.

Not all watches win awards for mechanical prowess; we think perfect design like this is equally worthy of celebration. The Serpenti has seen all sorts of twists and turns, it has morphed into multiple variations, with different metals, sizes, and even complications (tiny tourbillons!). But this model remains the most outstanding. If a yellow-gold Serpenti was good enough for Elizabeth Taylor, it’s good enough for the rest of us. –Malaika Crawford

The Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas features a 35mm 18-karat yellow gold curved case set with diamonds and a double-spiral 18-karat bracelet. For more, visit Bulgari.

An asymmetrical masterpiece that’s more coveted than ever

No legacy watch has had as prolific of a rise over the past few years as the Cartier Crash. Five years ago, a vintage Crash was a weird 1960s relic that sold for about $30,000 at auction, cared about by only a small group of in-the-know collectors. Slowly, then seemingly suddenly, the Crash was everywhere. Public figures were wearing vintage Crashes, and every real-deal collector started paying attention to the model. So did Cartier: In 2018, it brought the Crash back to its lineup to celebrate the reopening of its London boutique, where the watch was born in 1967. The new Crash is still about as rare as the original: Cartier only produces one a month, and you can bet they’re reserved for your favorite collector’s favorite collector. Today we see the Crash as a timeless design that represents everything Cartier is, totally singular and creatively unmatched. –Tony Traina

The Cartier Crash ref. WGCH0006 features a yellow-gold case measuring 22.5mm x 38.5mm. One piece is made per month, exclusively for the Cartier London boutique.

Yes, we are aware of the Tank. Right now, we prefer this cool kitty

The Cartier Panthere in yellow gold is an unimpeachable crowd pleaser. It has an easy-to-manage quartz movement, a beautifully crafted linked bracelet, blue sword hands, Roman numerals, rail track minute counter, and sapphire crown. It is a simple elegance that doesn’t overwhelm a beginner but still speaks to a seasoned veteran. Initially released in the ’80s as a delicate response to the decade’s opulence – more party-ready than a Tank and more blingy than a Must – the Panthère has aged into an classic all its own. –Nora Taylor

The Panthère de Cartier measures 23mm x 30mm and uses a quartz movement. MSRP: $21,600. For more, visit Cartier.

A modern sport watch that soars above the rest

A beautifully finished automatic steel sport watch clocking in at 36mm just over $10,000? Where do I sign up? The Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s entry into the steel sport watch boom of the past few years, but deeply rooted in its own history – taking cues from the long-gone St. Moritz but weaving in its modern manufacturing know-how. Chopard’s own abrasion-resistant Lucent Steel A223 case surrounds an in-house, COSC-certified automatic caliber. Its good looks don’t end there – many fans, including my Hodinkee compatriots, sing the praises of the watch’s three-link integrated bracelet. The steel sport watch nest is crowded, but the Alpine Eagle is an excellent choice for collectors looking to soar above the ordinary. –Nora Taylor

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 36 has a steel case with 100m of water resistance. It uses Chopard’s in-house COSC-certified caliber  09.01-C with a 42-hour power reserve. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

A quirky cult classic diver – in orange!

The orange Professional Doxa Sub 300 is the modern expression of a charming tool watch design that dates back to 1967 – a time when sex was safe and diving was dangerous. Cousteau vibes abound, and nothing looks like, or wears like, a Doxa Sub 300 with its cushion case, bubble crystal, twin-scale no-decompression bezel, tiny hour hand, and fun-loving orange dial. For my money (and penchant for dive watches), the Doxa Sub 300 is among the coolest sport watches ever made. The design has aged beautifully and packs more charm per millimeter than you’ll find in just about any other diver. –James Stacey

The Doxa Sub 300 measures 42.5mm and 13.4 thick. It features a COSC-certified automatic ETA caliber, screw-down crown, and 300 meters of water resistance. MSRP: $2,490. For more, visit Doxa.

The defining work of this generation’s master independent watchmaker

There might not be a better watchmaking story on the Hodinkee 40 than the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance. While François-Paul Journe has produced more complicated watches in the past (like his chiming Sonnerie Souveraine) or even present (the Astronomic is one of the most complicated on the market), the Résonance has its roots in a phenomenon first observed in the 1600s. Some of history’s greatest watchmakers have pursued the phenomenon, but none have mastered it like Journe. The double-dialed dual timezone display hints at the magic of the movement inside – two balances that beat side-by-side, unconnected, but in sync, with each of their vibrations harmonizing to create an incredibly accurate movement, appropriate for a man and brand obsessed with accuracy and pushing watchmaking to its technical limits. –Mark Kauzlarich

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance features Journe’s Caliber 1520 which uses two independent escapements and balances. Pricing starts at $136,700 in rose gold. For more, visit F.P. Journe.

The quintessential G-Shock

If you are not a watch nerd and just need a simple watch that’s durable and accurately tells the time, then get yourself a G-Shock DW5600. If you are a watch nerd and need a simple watch that’s durable and accurately tells the time, then you could also use a G-Shock DW5600. Basically anyone and everyone should own this watch. It’s 200m water resistant, has a timer, stopwatch, alarm clock, and even a calendar. And maybe the best feature of them all is: It has a light! Pound for pound, feature for feature, this watch superbly balances real ruggedness with everyday wearability. And you get all of the above for less than a hundred bucks. –Brandon Menancio

The G-Shock DW5600 has a resin case measuring 49mm x 43mm. It has an MSRP of $74.95 but can frequently be found cheaper at various retailers. For more, visit Casio.

The Snowflake, with a subtle pink twist

The Grand Seiko SBGA413, aka Shunbun, is the quintessential watch from the largest luxury watch brand in the East. Sure, the SBGA211, aka the Snowflake, initially grabbed the world’s attention, but the Shunbun is a bestseller in its own right. It has Grand Seiko’s nearly proprietary Spring Drive movement that provides quartz-level accuracy and a seconds hand that sweeps smoothly across a subtly textured light pink dial inspired by scattered cherry blossom petals. Let’s not forget that Zaratzu-polished feather-light titanium case and bracelet. Japanese craftsmanship meets Japanese nature. It’s sublime.  –Brandon Menancio

The Grand Seiko SBGA413 has a 40mm titanium case and uses a 9R65 Spring Drive caliber that is accurate to +/-15 seconds per month. MSPR: $6,600. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

The value-packed introduction to that manual-winding lifestyle

A handful of familiar names are always bandied about as answers to the age-old question: “What should my first mechanical watch be?” And the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is almost always at or near the top of that list. With a certain styling reminiscent of old military field watches, a slim 38mm case, and an incredibly useful 12- and 24-hour scale, the Khaki Field Mechanical takes faux-vintage to an accessible price point under 600 bucks. And it’s not just an entry-level watch. Much like a G-Shock, you’ll see this in collections that include Patek and Rolex. And if you’re a newbie, this is your gateway to a future horological addiction. –Danny Milton

The stainless steel Hamilton Khaki Field measures 38mm and features the manual-wind H-50 (ETA 2801-2), with an 80-hour power reserve. MSRP: $595. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

Part pilot’s watch, part field watch — it works all day, every day

No other pilot’s watch has quite the same history, dashing good looks and (relatively) modest luxury price point as the trusted IWC Mark XX. Since the Mark series came into its own with the Mark XI after WWII, the line has been a terrific option for anyone who wants a watch that’s just as good on land as it is in the sky. With 100m of water resistance, a reasonable 40mm case, a simple dial layout that matches almost any attire, and a movement with a five-day power reserve, the Mark XX could even make the case for a one-watch collection. But who am I kidding? That’s impossible! –Brandon Menancio

The IWC Mark XX measures 40mm x 10.8mm, with 100 meters of water resistance. It’s powered by IWC’s caliber 32111, produced by ValFleurier. $5,250 For more, visit IWC.

A Legacy Machine from a magician and his friends

Max Büsser & Friends (aka MB&F) don’t make watches, they make machines. And while the brand’s “Horological Machine” line with avant-garde style was its first, the “Legacy Machines” have taken off as an optimized blend of modern styling and traditional watchmaking. MB&F announced the LM-101 in 2014 with a comparatively affordable price, wearable 40mm size, and movement with a hairspring from friends at H. Moser & Cie. The movement was developed by independent watchmaking genius Kari Voutilainen and shown off through a dramatic domed crystal with a giant balance wheel floating over two enameled dials and a sunburst metal baseplate. The dial colors and metals have changed to keep the line fresh over the last nine years. If not for making something this wonderful, what are friends for? –Mark Kauzlarich

The MB&F Legacy Macine 101 measures 40mm and features a manual-wind movement developed by MB&F and designed and finished by Kari Voutilainen, displaying a three-dimensional flying balance wheel. For more, visit MB&F.

The definitive Bauhaus watch

The Tangente 38 is the Nomos model most representative of the brand in both design and execution. It’s minimal, versatile, and none other than F.P. Journe has sung the praises of Nomos as an incredible watchmaking value at its price point. The Tangente works well on anyone, not just ol’ F.P., constructed with strong design principles that make it feel refined and timeless. At its price range, it’s hard to find competitors that offer in-house movements with the same level of finishing and build quality. –TanTan Wang

The Nomos Tangente 38 measures 6.6mm thick and features Nomos’ in-house manual-winding Alpha movement with 43 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $2,330. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

Bond…Omega Bond

In 1993, Omega introduced the Seamaster Professional 300M, a modern take on the dive watch. The wave dial was an instant hit. Soon the blue Seamaster 300M even found its way onto James Bond’s wrist. Over the past 30 years, Omega has never rested on the Seamaster’s success, continuing to tweak the 300M for the better. The skeletonized hands have improved, the dial is now ceramic to match the bezel, and the movement is co-axial (not to mention a Master Chronometer). With each new generation the Seamaster 300M continues to cement its reputation as a classically styled but cutting-edge dive watch. It’s simply one of the best modern divers around. –Mark Hackman

The Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer measures 42mm x 13.5mm with 300m of water resistance. It uses Omega’s METAS-certified automatic caliber 8800. MSRP: $5,600 on bracelet. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

“Moonwatch” says it all

Up until today, the list of essential watches according to Hodinkee wasn’t a list at all – it was the Speedmaster Professional. “I’m not saying you have to keep it,” Ben Clymer wrote in 2016, “but I really think each man or woman who loves watches owes it to themselves to own a manually wound, three-register Speedmaster at some point in their lives.”

We still love it and always will. In 2016, the Speedmaster to own was a vintage example or a “Pre-Moon.” But Ben and the vintage nerds didn’t have the new-for-2021 Moonwatch equipped with Omega’s superb caliber 3861. Incremental improvements over more than half a century have given us the ultimate modern Speedmaster. Go with the hesalite crystal if you’re like me and want the old-school Moonwatch feel, though the “sapphire sandwich” is a nice way of Omega flexing. –Rich Fordon

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph uses Omega’s METAS-certified caliber 3861. It measures 42mm x 13.6mm and features 50m of water resistance; it has a Hesalite crystal and closed caseback. MSRP: $6,600 on bracelet. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

A tremendous movement with power for days

The Big Crown Pointer Date has been central to the Oris catalog since its introduction in 1938. In 2021, a refreshed Big Crown Pointer Date arrived with the in-house caliber 403, which boasts a five-day power reserve, resistance to magnetism, 10-year service interval, and better-than-COSC accuracy. A sleeker bezel (along with updated font and hands) pumped new life into the model. Oris remains one of the world’s most beloved independent watchmakers, and this is the piece that represents both where it’s been and where it’s heading. –Mark Hackman

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date features Oris’ in-house automatic caliber 403 with a five-day power reserve. The steel case measures 38mm x 13mm and has 50m of water resistance. MSRP: $3,700. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

A sleek sport watch with an innovative complication

During a time when just about every brand has its riff on a sport watch, Parmigiani does something truly original. The brand introduced its Tonda PF line in 2021, but the GMT Rattrapante from 2022 is what brought the collection into its own. The complication is an absolute joy to use – a button is discreetly hidden in the teardrop lug at 8 o’clock. Press it to advance the white gold hour hand, and a yellow gold hour hand is revealed below to track home time. Other than that, the GMT Rattrapante stays sleek, slim, and understated, the defining traits of the Tonda PF that’ve quickly made it a world-class sport watch. –Tony Traina

The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante has a steel case measuring 40mm x 10.7mm with 60m of water resistance. It also features a guilloche blue dial and knurled platinum bezel. The caliber PF051 is a micro-rotor caliber with a“split GMT” function for dual time zone display. MSRP: $27,000. For more, visit Parmigiani Fleurier.

The most important complication combination in high horology, now in-house

The perpetual calendar chronograph is to Patek Philippe what the Daytona is to Rolex. And yet when it was introduced in 2011, the 5270 wasn’t well-received. Sure, it was Patek’s first perpetual calendar chronograph with an in-house caliber, but some thought the design was too big, too bulky, or just unbalanced. But over the past decade-plus, the 5270 has bettered its aesthetics to match the achievement that is Patek’s in-house CH 29-535 PS Q. Today, the 5270 is offered in a trio of metals – yellow gold, rose gold (with matching rose gold bracelet), and 2022’s platinum version. While it might not have the collector following of the previous references in Patek’s all-important lineage (yet), there’s no doubt that, as with all Patek perpetual calendar chronographs, it’s only a matter of time. –Tony Traina

The Patek Philippe 5270 features the caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q, Patek’s first in-house perpetual chronograph movement. It measures 41mm x 12.4mm and starts at $187,400. For more, visit Patek Philippe.

A modern sport watch that builds on Genta’s legacy

If you want a simple stainless steel sport watch from Patek Philippe in 2023, the Aquanaut is really your only option. Introduced in 1997, the Aquanaut is Patek’s most recent attempt at a casual sport watch, complete with a tropic rubber strap. It’s smaller and less expensive than the Nautilus, while still managing to capture the essence of Gérald Genta’s design. The Aquanaut is not exactly a secret and remains difficult for mere mortals to buy at retail, but the demand is justified. Few watches have been as important to Patek’s history over the past 25 years. –Tony Traina

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A-001 has a steel case measuring 40.8mm x 8.1mm that comes on a black rubber strap. It uses Patek’s caliber 26‑330 SC with a 45-hour power reserve. MSRP: $24,250. For more, visit Patek Philippe.

Design so good, it needs no introduction

The avant-garde Belgian watchmaker Ressence is one of the only brands confident enough not to slap its name on the dial – the design speaks for itself. Nothing else looks like a Ressence. Nothing else works like a Ressence. Nothing else has the audacity to introduce a whole new way of time telling like the Ressence Orbital Convecs System (which shortens to the acronym ROCS, and which does indeed rock). The watches are not easy to find, or to afford – and in models like the 46mm Type 5, they’re also not easy to wear. But the Type 1 Slim shrinks and flattens the case size (by at least 4mm in each direction) and knocks 15 grand off the price. So even the bill is slimmer.  –Nick Marino

The Ressence Type 1 Slim measures 42mm x 11mm and is water resistant to 100m. The orbital display system uses Ressence’s automatic ROCS system to show the hours, minutes, seconds, and day of the week. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

A trophy watch, yes. But also a technical marvel that’s so light it floats

Richard Mille, the most divisive brand in horology, continues to rack up achievements in mechanical and material innovation. It has established an instantly recognizable design language. And the model you see here is the one we think best reflects the virtues of a watchmaker that routinely charges seven figures a pop. Would we actually wear it? Hell yes, we would.

The RM 27 series was made in partnership with tennis champ and RM brand ambassador Rafael Nadal, specifically developed for Rafa to wear while he plays in matches. The original RM27 blew our minds when it floated on water in 2010. Then in 2020, the latest RM27-04 upped the ante with its ability to resist accelerative forces in excess of 12,000 Gs, all while only weighing a mere 30 grams, including the strap! Which works out to about $33,000 per gram. –Malaika Crawford

The dress watch to end all dress watches

It’s as perfect as an Eames chair. As stylish as a 911. As beautiful as Audrey Hepburn. As dignified as Sidney Poitier. As immutable as the laws of physics. With its applied hour markers, supreme legibility, fluted bezel, champagne dial, and general bearing of elegance, the Day-Date looks almost exactly the same today as it did 40 years ago, which is the point. We are all for progress. But to change something this perfect would be a crime. –Nick Marino

The Rolex Day-Date ref. 128238 has a yellow-gold case measuring 36mm x 12.1mm with 100m of water resistance. It’s powered by Rolex’s COSC-certified caliber 3255 with 70 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $35,000. For more, visit Rolex. 

The planet’s most exciting gem-set timepiece — and the rainbow every other brand is still chasing

Rainbows are everywhere in watchmaking these days, and the modern lineage begins with Rolex. We would argue that it also ends with Rolex. One thing’s for sure: The Rainbow Daytona sets the benchmark for gem-setting in watchmaking. The quality of craftsmanship and calibration, the gradient of hand-selected sapphires, it’s all so good…and so Rolex.

Lest anyone think this is “just” about the bling (not that there’s anything wrong with that), remember that lapidary is no easy feat when it comes to watches. Up to 90 percent of each colored stone is disposed of in order to ensure they all fit perfectly into the gradient setting. And then there’s the case, a rose-gold stunner even for those of us who prefer yellow.

The Daytona ref. 116595RBOW has forced the entire industry to reposition its approach to the much-neglected discipline of gem-setting. It now has many imitators, but it remains in a league of its own. –Malaika Crawford

The Rolex Daytona ref. 11659 RBOW has a 40mm case in Everose gold. It features pink gold crystal subdials, 36 baguette-set sapphires in the bezel, 56 diamonds set into the lugs and case, and colored 11 sapphire indexes. MSRP: $96,600. Since not even Rolex will tell you much more, check out our hands-on with the Rainbow Daytona. 

The platonic ideal of a modern watch

Since its introduction in the early 1950s, the Rolex Submariner has become synonymous with the word “wristwatch.” It is both never-changing and ever-changing. Most of us who wear one will never go diving, but Rolex continues to finesse the design, making it more capable as the years go on. Nowadays, you’ll find the Sub with a ceramic bezel for increased scratch resistance. The case has been upsized to 41mm, but that size increase actually worked to slim down the overall profile. It’s a sexy watch, it’s a robust watch, and it could be the only watch you would ever need – especially in no-date form. Come on, it needs no further justification. It’s the freakin’ Rolex Submariner. –Danny Milton

The Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 has a stainless steel case measuring 41mm x 12mm with 300m of water resistance. It’s powered by Rolex’s COSC-certified caliber 3230 with 70 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $9,100. For more, visit Rolex.

Not just for mountaineers

When Seiko resurrected the Alpinist in three references in 2006, the green-dialed SARB017 took the watch enthusiast community by storm. Today, the modern SPB series Alpinist remains a value proposition with heritage and a beautiful dial design, plus the unique internal rotating compass bezel. The Alpinist can be an easy starter watch or a worthy addition to an already fleshed-out collection. We think it surpasses even the hallowed Seiko 5. With a multitude of dial colors to choose from (the green SBP121 is still our favorite), the Alpinist has established itself as a force in Seiko’s current lineup. –TanTan Wang

The Seiko Alpinist SBP 117, 119, 121, 123, and SBP 209 measure 39.5mm x 13.2mm with 200m of water resistance. The Alpinist features Seiko’s automatic caliber 6R35 with 70 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $725. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop. 

Seiko and diver – two words that just go together

You can’t form a list of great watches without a Seiko diver, and the Prospex SPB317 is our pick — embodying so much of what we love about Seiko dive-watch design. The black dial offers a backdrop for a vintage-inspired handset with ample legibility and excellent lume. The wide steel case sits flat on your wrist with an offset crown at 4 o’clock. The bezel is just begging for a PADI certification and some bottom time. Even if you don’t dive, a Seiko diver offers a huge amount of value and enjoyment to just about any watch enthusiast. And this is the best one out there. –James Stacey

The Seiko SBP317 measures 41mm x 12.3mm and is water resistant to 200m. It’s powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R35 with a 70-hour power reserve. MSRP: $900. For more, visit Seiko. 

The universe-altering collab that had fans lining up across the globe

It’s the watch that broke the internet and wasn’t even sold online — a Swatch x Omega collaboration that turned a whole new generation into watch enthusiasts, and that was so popular upon release that the cops had to be called in to control the crowds. The piece itself is basically a Speedmaster in a Bioceramic (a.k.a. plastic) case. It comes in 11 colorful and celestial-themed designs. It costs less than $300 and remains one of the most challenging watches to buy at retail unless you don’t care which model you purchase. We see fewer MoonSwatches on the street than we do Royal Oaks; a year after the first release, there’s still an excitement to spotting one in the wild. –Danny Milton

The Omega MoonSwatch has a BioCeramic case measuring 42mm x 13.5mm. It retails for $260 at Swatch stores (if you can find one!). For more on the MoonSwatch, check out our Week on the Wrist. 

Set it and forget it

When this 40mm Aquaracer was released in 2022, one thought came to our mind: TAG Heuer, the Swiss entry-level brand, is back. This is the brand’s stab at a watch for everybody. In retrospect, a 40mm TAG Heuer inspired by its first dive watches from the 1980s sounds so obvious (and it is!), but it was missing from the brand’s catalog for far too long. Now, finally, we have one that can satisfy both hardcore enthusiasts and mass consumers, all for less than three grand. –Tony Traina

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 WBP2111 measures 40mm x 11mm. It has 200m of water resistance and is powered by TAG Heuer’s automatic caliber 5. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop. 

A funky vintage reissue that’s unashamedly quartz

When you’re a watch lover with limited resources (like me), you’ve gotta pick and choose. I generally think it’s best to skip the lowest-priced watches, no matter how fun they might be, and save up for the occasional splurge. So it’s saying something, then, that I have two different Q Timex editions – they’re just undeniable. 

Launched in 2019 as a nearly 1:1 reproduction of a vintage Timex from 1979, the squared-off and beveled stainless-steel case is reminiscent of many an integrated-bracelet watch. The prominent “Q” on the dial tells you this is proudly quartz and is all the better for it. It’s also been the basis for a lot of cool limited-edition watches over the last four years, including a few GMTs and two Hodinkee releases. The whole H family is on board with this one. –Mark Kauzlarich

The Timex Q Reissue measures 38mm x 11.5mm. It uses a quartz movement and has 50 meters of water resistance. MSRP: $179. For more, visit Timex. 

Democratizing the sport watch

High-end integrated steel sport watches need not cost as much as a Mercedes. With a mix of brushed and polished surfaces surrounding a waffle dial, the Tissot PRX looks like it came from the same design school as its more expensive Swiss cousins (but attended that school on scholarship). The Powermatic 80 movement keeps the piece slim, at a hair under 11mm, while still allowing for over three days of power reserve. And you can buy one pretty much whenever you want. By removing the waitlist and keeping a comma out of the price tag, the PRX has properly democratized the steel sport watch. –Mark Hackman

The Tissot PRX measures 40mm x 10.9mm and has 100m of water resistance. It’s powered by the Tissot Powermatic 80.111 (base ETA 2824-2). MSRP: $675. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop. 

The modern diver for the vintage nerd

When the Black Bay Fifty-Eight was released in 2018, it kind of broke people’s brains. Unlike so many other heritage-inspired dive watches, this one isn’t faithful to any specific vintage Submariner. It takes the best elements of an entire era of Tudor divers (snowflake hands, no crown guards – hell, we’ll even ride for the faux rivets) and smashes them together to create what’s still the best vintage-inspired diver on the market. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is retro without trying too hard, with a modern build and manufacture caliber that stands up to dive watches twice its price (and holds up pretty well to a certain other dive watch from Tudor’s big brother). –Tony Traina

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight has a stainless steel case measuring 39mm x  11.9mm with 200m of water resistance. It’s powered by Tudor’s COSC-certified MT5402 with 70 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $3,950 (on bracelet). For more, visit Tudor. 

A sized-down take on Tudor’s titanium tool

If the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has too much of a retro vibe for your tastes, Tudor’s fresh Pelagos 39 takes the tech-forward and hardcore stance of the original Pelagos and translates that formula for everyday wear on a wider range of wrists. Downsized and a bit lighter in terms of outright diving prowess, the Pelagos 39 retains the line’s characteristic titanium construction and stoic personality but does so with a 39mm case that sports an automatic no-date movement, an excellent lumed bezel, 200 meters of water resistance, and that unmistakable Snowflake hand. It’s a thoroughly modern expression of the classic Tudor Submariner that we named “Tool Watch of the Year” in 2022. –James Stacey

The Tudor Pelagos 39 ref. M25407N-0001 has a grad 2 titanium case measuring 39mm x 11.8mm with 200m of water resistance. It uses Tudor’s COSC-certified MT5400 caliber with 70 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $4,600 (on bracelet). For more, visit Tudor. 

A minimal Italian diver

The Unimatic Modello Uno is brutal and beautiful all at once, in a way only a Milanese dive watch could be. Unimatic was basically born when a couple of suave Italian guys with an eye for design (the founders are both industrial designers) saw the traditional dive watch design and said “we can do it better. And way cooler.” With the U1 Classic, they stripped the dive watch down to its studs, only adding back what’s absolutely essential to make for a beautiful, modern diver. The result is an industrial-design take on the traditional diver that’s unlike anything else on the market. –TanTan Wang

The Unimatic U1 Classic measures 41.5mm x 13.6mm. It’s powered by a Seiko NH35A movement with 41 hours of power reserve. MSRP: $595. For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.  

A sleeper choice from the O.G. high watchmaker

Did you forget about the Cornes de Vache 1955 amidst all the Overseas and 222 interest of the past few years? We didn’t. Consider this stainless steel chronograph the Le Bernardin of our list. It may fall out of mainstream favor, but it’s always there, doing what it does better than anyone else. Soon there will come a time when collectors are re-obsessed with finely finished Lemania base calibers and stainless steel cases in their complicated watches. And when that day comes, Vacheron Constantin will be ready with this piece. –Rich Fordon

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache measures 38.5mm x 10.9mm and is powered by Vacheron caliber 1142 (based on the Lemania 2310), which also carries the Geneva Seal. MSRP: $43,300. For more, visit Vacheron Constantin.

It’s called “The First” for a reason

When you call yourself “El Primero,” you sure better live up to the name. And the Zenith Chronomaster Original certainly does. Zenith’s modern take on the original El Primero from 1969 (and quite literally the first automatic chronograph, depending who you ask) is a faithful take on the original with all the high-tech modern goodies you’d expect from a manufacturer like Zenith that continues to push the technical boundaries of time-keeping. There’s a reason we chose this case and bracelet for our Hodinkee limited edition in 2022 – it’s a killer combo, and continues to be the highlight of Zenith’s catalog. There’s perhaps no modern chronograph that makes its ancestors more proud. –Rich Fordon

The Zenith Chronometer Original “El Primero” has a stainless steel case measuring 38mm x 12.6mm. It’s powered by the automatic El Primero 3600, a high-frequency caliber with a 1/10th second chronograph. MSRP: $10,000 (on bracelet). For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop. 

Now we need your help. Please use the poll below to vote for your favorite Hodinkee 40 watch. And then stay tuned – we’ll post the fan-favorite rankings in April.