Pre-Owned Picks: A Tudor Submariner With A Shield, A Unique Alarm Watch From Glashütte Original, And A Funky Off-Center Chronograph From Jaquet Droz
Every week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. Captured by our talented in-house photographers, you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. So enjoy a lovely neo-vintage Tudor Submariner, Glashütte Original with a unique alarm, Nomos’s interpretation of a GMT watch, a non-traditional monopusher chronograph from Jaquet Droz, and a Breitling meant for the open road.
Tudor Submariner Midsize Ref. 75190
In recent years, Tudor has stepped out from the shadow of its big brother Rolex and developed its own design language, as well as a dedicated fan base. However, if we rewind a few decades, that was not the case. The 75190 was part of the last series of Tudor Submariners from the 1990s, and as its name suggests, it shares a connection with the Rolex Submariner.
Officially, this watch is called the Tudor Prince Date Submariner, and at first glance, it closely resembles a Rolex, featuring the same bezel, case (which even states on the back that it is made by Rolex), and Rolex crown. The snowflake hands, characteristic of Tudor, are absent here, replaced by Rolex-style hands. The bracelet is a folding link Oyster design, inherited from Rolex’s earlier models, only adding to the watch’s vintage charm. As it predates 1998, the luminescent material used is tritium paint instead of the more modern Super-LumiNova.
Although the tritium paint no longer glows due to its age, it does gradually develop an appealing off-yellow cream patina over time. While the hands on this watch appear slightly less aged than the rest of the dial, they too have surpassed their glow-by date. Eventually, all of the tritium elements should develop a similar patina.
The Tudor Submariner does have one distinct difference between it and the Rolex Submariner: it came in different sizes. This 75190 is 36mm – a size Rolex has never offered for the Submariner. The smaller size means that this Tudor will fit a wider range of wrists, perfect for those who always loved the Rolex version but never its size.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Center Chronograph Ref. J007830270
If you prefer a traditional chronograph, there are numerous options available with the standard register layout and multiple pushers to suit your taste. However, if you appreciate a watch that offers a unique appearance and functionality, then you’ve entered the realm of your dream chronograph.
Jaquet Droz embraces unconventional approaches in watchmaking, often reimagining the placement of time-telling elements on the dial. In this particular watch, the standard display of hours and minutes is positioned slightly to the side within its own sub-dial at the top of the watch. The majority of the dial is dedicated to the chronograph seconds, which is prominently displayed with a large hand that seemingly touches the bezel on one side and features a substantial counterbalance on the other. This bold aesthetic is further accentuated by the vertical alignment of the chronograph hand, making it the focal point of the watch. To operate the chronograph, a monopusher integrated into the crown allows for sequential functions of start, stop, and reset with each push.
The lower sub-dial features two hands: one for the 30-minute totalizer of the chronograph and another longer hand that indicates the date. Due to the off-center positioning of all the hands, the length of the date hand prevents it from passing beyond the central seconds. Instead, when it reaches the end of the 31st day, it undergoes a retrograde reset, swiftly snapping back counterclockwise to “1” – initiating a new cycle.
On the reverse side, the watch showcases the 26M5R movement, which boasts exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous finishing. The gold rotor with openwork design allows for a clear view of the mesmerizing striping that radiates from the escapement. Additionally, the meticulously hand-finished, rounded edges add to the overall aesthetic appeal. This an architecturally stunning piece of art on the wrist that happens to tell the time.
Glashütte Original Senator Diary Ref. 100-13-02-02-04
Glashütte Original follows its own path when it comes to watchmaking, and its approach to creating an alarm watch is no exception. Unlike the traditional formula, where alarm watches produce a tinny buzz at a specific time, often in a non-24-hour format resulting in two alarms per day, Glashütte Original took a different approach. To address potential inconveniences, such as an alarm going off unexpectedly at 7 PM during a family conversation, they incorporated a 24-hour clock for the alarm. This feature is displayed at the bottom of the dial, with a red arrow indicating the timing for the alarm.
Another challenge with alarm watches is their limited duration and sometimes unpleasant tone. However, Glashütte Original addressed this issue by extending the alarm duration to a full minute and fine-tuning the sound to achieve a more resonant sound. The outcome is an alarm ring reminiscent of an old phone ring or a desk alarm rather than the typical buzz of more simple alarm watches. Adding to the convenience, the alarm can be easily turned off with a simple push of a button located on the left side of the case.
Pressing the button on the left side of the case allows you to cycle through various alarm settings. These include a bell symbol indicating an active alarm, a bell symbol with a strikethrough indicating no alarm, an “h” symbol that enables you to set the hour of the alarm using the crown on the left side of the case, and a “d” symbol for setting the date of the alarm.
Yes, you read that correctly – the date. This alarm can be set to go off on a specific day of the month. If you desire a daily alarm, you simply need to adjust the date forward each day after it goes off. However, if you have an important meeting weeks in advance, you can set the alarm accordingly. This unique complication showcases the watchmaking prowess and ingenuity of Glashütte Original.
Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang Ref. A25310
The horse in full gallop on the dial of this Top Time is from the iconic Ford Mustang, part of a trio of watches that Breitling released to pay tribute to American sports cars. But here’s the thing, you do not need to be an enthusiast of the car to love this watch.
The slightly inclined outer-ring tachymeter elegantly transitions onto a mesmerizing deep green dial. This captivating shade of green prompts us to question why more watches don’t utilize this color palette. The selection of this particular hue in combination with the Mustang finds its roots in the 1968 film Bullitt, where Steve McQueen maneuvered his Dark Highland Green fastback Ford through the streets of San Francisco in one of the most legendary car chases ever captured on film. The rounded square shapes of the sub-dials pay homage to car speedometers, adding a distinctive touch to the overall design.
For enthusiasts of the Ford Mustang, this timepiece is a must-have, while for others, it remains an exquisite chronograph with a charming horse emblem. Regardless, it undeniably looks fantastic on the wrist, appealing to both car aficionados and watch lovers alike.
Nomos Tangomat Ref. 635
Nomos’s Bauhaus style adheres to the principle of form following function, resulting in designs that embody simplicity and beauty. Put simply, Nomos believes in eliminating clutter and unnecessary embellishments to create exceptional timepieces. When examining a traditional GMT watch, Nomos questions the purpose of an extra hand on the dial. Why introduce a potential source of confusion or add a bezel when it serves no essential function? Thus, they approached the concept of a traveler’s watch in their own unique way.
To set the watch, use the pusher to adjust the city code at 9 o’clock to your local city. Then, pull out the crown, and both the main dial displaying the time and the 24-hour wheel at 3 o’clock will move synchronously. Subsequently, when you travel to a new destination, simply use the pusher. Each push will advance the hour hand and update the time zone indicator accordingly. Meanwhile, the local hour displayed at 3 o’clock will remain unchanged.
With this approach, you no longer need to worry about differentiating between the hands or whether the bezel has shifted since you last set it. A quick glance at the reference city code allows you to instantly determine the corresponding time zone on the dial. Furthermore, being a Nomos timepiece, it not only functions seamlessly, but also boasts an aesthetically pleasing design. Despite housing an automatic movement, it maintains a slim profile, measuring under 11mm in thickness.
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