Pre-Owned Picks: A Summer-Ready Omega Aqua Terra, An Anniversary Speedmaster 1957, And A Breitling Navitimer Without The Chronograph
Every week, we take great pride in presenting a thoughtfully selected assortment of pre-owned timepieces, available exclusively in the Hodinkee Shop. In this week’s offering, we present an exquisite neo-vintage Grand Seiko, notable past models from esteemed brands Zenith and Omega, a Breitling Navitimer that has been refined by removing a signature complication to potentially enhance its appeal, and an exceptional daily wear option from Omega that has garnered widespread acclaim. So, take a moment to relax, indulge your passion for horology, and embark on an enthralling journey as you explore the remarkable selection of timepieces in this week’s edition of Pre-Owned Picks in your quest for your next cherished wristwatch.
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive Ref. SBGA003
For much of its history, Grand Seiko remained a well-kept secret within the watch world, cherished by a devoted group of collectors. The brand predominantly operated within the borders of Japan, with its timepieces bearing a prominent Seiko logo at the top and a smaller GS (Grand Seiko) marking at the bottom, subtly indicating that there was something distinctive about these watches. However, in recent years, Grand Seiko has undergone a remarkable transformation. It has emerged as an independent company, breaking free from the shadow of Seiko and embarking on a mission to share the art of Zaratsu polishing with a wider audience. The shift has allowed Grand Seiko to proclaim its identity more boldly and passionately, spreading the gospel of its exceptional craftsmanship to watch enthusiasts worldwide.
As the fanbase of Grand Seiko continues to grow, so does the recognition of its remarkable value proposition. Despite the increasing popularity, these timepieces are still regarded as exceptional in terms of value for money. Those willing to delve into the brand’s past can unearth hidden gems at attractive prices, such as the SBGA003. This particular model features a captivating black dial and is housed in a 41mm stainless steel case, meticulously polished to achieve a mirror-like shine. When you closely examine the dial under a jeweler’s loupe, you’ll be awestruck by the level of craftsmanship on display.
Although this timepiece predates the brand’s international distribution, it still bears the Seiko logo on the dial. However, the steady and smooth glide of the second hand, powered by the 9R65 spring drive movement, serves as a testament to the top-tier watchmaking expertise employed by Grand Seiko. The remarkable aspect is that this timepiece offers exceptional craftsmanship and performance at a price point that is akin to entry-level luxury watches. It’s a testament to the enduring value and quality that Grand Seiko offers to collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.
OMEGA Speedmaster ’57 The 1957 Trilogy 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Ref. 311.10.39.30.01.001
The Speedmaster, known for its iconic design, has remained relatively unchanged since the 1960s, with the same hands, dial, case, bezel, movement, and crystal enduring for six decades. However, it’s important not to forget that the original design had some subtle differences. The 1957 Trilogy edition, launched in 2017 to commemorate the Speedmaster’s 60th anniversary, pays homage to the original model.
This limited edition timepiece closely resembles the original, featuring a symmetrical straight lug case that is noticeably slimmer compared to the later design iterations. With a diameter of 38.5mm, it offers a more wearable size for any wrist, and despite the reduced width, legibility remains excellent with its three-register chronograph layout.
In terms of aesthetics, the sub-dials sport alpha-style hands, while the hours and minutes are indicated by large “Broadsword” hands, deviating from the simple thin stick hands that later became synonymous with the Speedmaster. Additionally, the black aluminum bezel of the original is replaced with a stainless steel one.
Overall, these elements come together to create a watch that serves as a clear reminder of the NASA-tested Speedmaster while possessing its own distinct character. While the Speedmaster gained fame as the watch worn during lunar missions, this particular model was originally intended for the race tracks of Le Mans. Nevertheless, one can’t help but imagine that the astronauts would have been just as pleased to wear this remarkable timepiece on their space missions.
Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 41 Ref. A17326
Upon the introduction of the Navitimer 1 in 2018, some watch purists raised an eyebrow, questioning whether this non-chronograph timepiece deserved to bear the revered name of Breitling’s iconic chronograph. Since its inception in the early 1950s, the Breitling Navitimer had been a pilot’s tool watch, featuring a chronograph function and slide rule bezel for the calculations required by aviators of that era. It quickly gained popularity within its target market. However, critics who didn’t require all the functionalities of the Navitimer often found the dial to be busy and occasionally difficult to read.
Striking a delicate balance between preserving original elements like the slide rule and beaded bi-directional bezel – designed for easy gripping – and adopting a cleaner dial without the chronograph, the Navitimer 1 represents a 41mm embodiment of modern Breitling excellence. It has successfully won over the purist crowd, ushering in a new chapter in the history of the Navitimer, this time in a more approachable and accessible package.
OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ref. 220.12.41.21.02.002
I personally have a soft spot for this exact configuration of the Omega Aqua Terra, as it happens to be the first luxury watch I ever purchased. It possesses the qualities of a timepiece that could easily serve as your sole watch, provided you possess the necessary willpower. The rubber strap is exceptionally comfortable, featuring small ridges that facilitate airflow between the strap and your wrist, making it ideal for hot summer weather. Omega’s deployant buckle is slim and ergonomically shaped to follow the contours of the wrist. In my opinion, if one were to make a list of the most comfortable buckles in all of watchmaking I would fiercely argue that this is the winner.
This watch is a simple three-hand model with a date function, but that doesn’t imply that the dial has to be boring. The applied markers, horizontal teak pattern adorning the dial, and the slightly recessed outer edge combine to create a visually captivating dial with just the right amount of detail. The placement of the date window at six o’clock brings a sense of symmetry to the dial, which is appreciated by those of us who have a love-hate relationship with date wheels. A touch of orange on the seconds hand and the cardinal numerals on the outer track serve as a reminder that this is a modern timepiece that embraces a touch of color. With a water resistance rating of 150 meters and an antimagnetic Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, this watch offers peace of mind, allowing you to wear it confidently on boating excursions in Miami without concerns about its durability. As my collection has grown exponentially, this is still the watch I keep going back to.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Ref. 03.3200.3600
Zenith is a brand that holds a significant place in the history of the automatic chronograph, and the original El Primero design continues to captivate enthusiasts with its timeless appeal, which is now embodied by the modern Chronomaster Original. In the late 1960s, the race to develop the first automatic chronograph movement was fiercely competitive. While various brands, including Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and Seiko, approached the challenge in different ways, Zenith’s El Primero stood out as a high-frequency movement that boasted accuracy, reliability, and a more compact form compared to its modular counterparts. Over the years, the El Primero garnered praise from watch writers and enthusiasts alike for its technical prowess and craftsmanship.
The story of Zenith’s survival during the quartz crisis is legendary, and it’s a tale that can be explored in greater detail through reading or by watching videos dedicated to the topic. Fortunately, Zenith emerged from that challenging period, and today, we have the pleasure of witnessing the revival of the original 38mm A386 beauty. The iconic El Primero features three interlocking registers, each with its own distinctive shade of grey to blue, serving as a hallmark of the timepiece. Positioned at 4:30, the date wheel interrupts the timing track, and while this might not always be the most popular placement for a date window, it has become a signature characteristic of the El Primero movement. The classic pump pushers offer a satisfying click as you start the high-frequency seconds hand on its journey, or you can enjoy the mechanical ballet of the El Primero through the see-through exhibition caseback.
For all of your pre-owned watch buying needs, head to the Hodinkee Shop.
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