Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex Rainbow Day-Date, A Vacheron Constantin With A Gold Movement, And The Anti-Magnetic Omega Seamaster ‘Bumblebee’
Every week, we take the time to present to you a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of the shop. Starting this week, in order to help demonstrate what makes each one worthy of the spotlight, we have enlisted our talented photographers. Now you will get a chance to see a Vacheron Constantin movement, the signature seconds hand of a historical Omega, the stunning dial work of Breguet, the beauty of Breitling, and a Rolex that glitters in gold – all in much better detail.
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 128239
Sometimes, you may prefer a subtle touch when it comes to your choice of watch, while other times, you want your watch to make a bold statement that can be heard from miles away. When it comes to making an unforgettable impression, no watch compares to a rainbow Rolex. While some may dismiss it as too flashy or claim they wouldn’t wear such a timepiece, deep down, every single person secretly wishes they could adorn their wrist with this watch, even if just for a day. A rainbow Rolex exudes the swagger of the showtime Lakers and the 1980s Miami Hurricanes, offering an impossibly cool allure.
The canvas for all these jewels is a white gold 36mm Day-Date, commonly known as the “president.” A watch that is already famous for being on the wrist of many world leaders. It is most commonly seen in yellow gold, but the white gold case on this ref. 128239 is a better match for the rainbow dial, allowing the jewels to provide all of the colors for this watch.
Take a look at the dial closely, and you will see why Rolex gem setting is considered as good as any in the business. Packed tightly together, the diamonds become a sparkling backdrop in which it is hard to tell where one ends and another begins. They run flawlessly into the nameplates and windows, framing each one in their own shower of light. The hour markers are all colored sapphires that have been hand selected to give the perfect gradient across the colors of the rainbow. From red at 3 o’clock to violet at 1, the colors slowly morph into the next. This is a special watch that all of us covet, and only a few will own.
Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition Limited Edition Ref. AB0920
You can be forgiven for thinking this is the new Breguet Type XX at first glance. While both watches draw inspiration from 1950s pilot’s watches, the original AVI. 765 came out a year before Breguet and was not designed for French military standards; rather, it was made with U.S. pilots in mind.
Early jets like the F-86 Sabre were quite complex and required a 15-min warm-up and preflight check. The Breitling AVI 765 had a modified minute counter at three o’clock to read 15 minutes rather than the usual 30, just to align with the needs of the American jets.
Staying as true to the original as possible, including the 41mm case sizing, the AB0920 was launched in 2021 and is an example of how to do a re-issue right. All six hands are identical to the 1953 model, and the font on the dial, sub-dials, and bezel are true to the original. The dial has one small change: the word “Geneve” has been removed, and “Swiss Made” now appears at the bottom of the dial.
Vintage watches always hold the fascination of collectors. They tell a story about what was going on in the world when they were made, what role watches played during that time, and the life the watch has lived to get where it is today. The downside is that they can be fragile from the passage of time, difficult to repair if parts aren’t available, and any problems or damage will only get worse as the watch gets older. Bringing back a watch in its original form like this allows more people to get a chance to get as close as possible to wearing a masterpiece from 1953.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine Ref. 33155/000R-9588
When you have continuously produced watches since 1755, and throughout that illustrious history, you have consistently been hailed as one of the greatest watchmakers in the world, there is indeed much cause for celebration. In commemoration of their 200th anniversary in 1955, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the model 6099 – an elegant, time-only watch that boldly pushed the boundaries of slimness in wristwatches, measuring a mere 5.3mm thick, complemented by exquisitely angled lugs. Fast forward another 55 years and a new iteration of this bicentennial model was introduced as part of the Historiques line, incorporating a few contemporary enhancements while maintaining its cherished essence.
The first notable change is an upsizing from 32mm to 36mm, a welcome adjustment that reflects contemporary preferences while maintaining the refined proportions of a dress watch. Despite the addition of an exhibition caseback, Vacheron Constantin managed to achieve an impressively slim profile of just 4.1mm. Remarkably, this was accomplished while retaining the iconic cal. 1003 movement used in the 1955 model. Witnessing this Geneva Seal movement through the transparent caseback is an unforgettable experience for any watch enthusiast. What sets it apart is that a majority of the movement components are crafted from 18k gold instead of the more common brass or steel. This solid gold movement has undergone meticulous finishing to the highest standards. The Geneva Seal certification ensures that every bridge edge has been meticulously rounded and polished to a mirror-like finish by hand. Each interior angle is painstakingly achieved by the skilled hands of a watchmaker. Even the insides of the gear wheels are meticulously beveled and polished. Owning this watch without a jeweler’s loupe to appreciate the exquisite details would truly be a missed opportunity.
The front of the Historiques Ultra-Fine embodies the essence of beauty in simplicity. Its off-white dial features minimalistic gold markers that perfectly complement the two gold hands, providing all the necessary elements for timekeeping and nothing more. The inclusion of angled lugs adds an architectural flair, offering a subtle preview of the intricate details that await on the other side of the watch.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial > 15,000 Gauss Ref. 231.10.42.21.01.002
In today’s world, magnets have become ubiquitous, present in everyday objects such as cell phones, purse clasps, and even electric cars. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to escape their influence. When a watch comes into contact with a magnetic field, the delicate interaction between its springs and gears can be significantly disrupted, resulting in a mechanical timepiece rapidly losing its accuracy.
For over a century, watchmakers have grappled with the challenge of mitigating the effects of magnetic fields, which became particularly problematic for individuals working in occupations where exposure to electromagnetic fields was common. In the early days, both pocket watches and wristwatches employed techniques similar to what Rolex utilizes today with the Milgauss to protect against magnetic interference. These methods involved the use of a Faraday cage made of soft iron, which effectively redirected the magnetic field around the movement. While this approach proved effective in shielding against weaker magnetic fields, it was not entirely sufficient when faced with stronger magnets.
In 2013, Omega introduced the Aqua Terra watch, which quickly gained the nickname “bumblebee” due to its distinctive black and yellow hand. This timepiece marked a significant breakthrough in solving the problem of magnetism in watches. Instead of relying on a cage around the movement, Omega opted for materials that were highly non-ferrous. As a result, the delicate springs and gears within this watch exhibit remarkable resistance to magnetic fields, comparable to how the Hulk effortlessly swats away a fly. With a rating to withstand 15,000 Gauss (equivalent to the magnetic field strength emitted by an MRI machine), encountering a magnetic field that could affect the Aqua Terra would be of less concern than your belt buckle flying off your pants. Subsequently, Omega extended the same level of anti-magnetism to all their Co-Axial watches; but it is this timepiece that marked the beginning of that revolutionary journey. It is a historical piece that not only holds significance, but also boasts a timeless aesthetic suitable for daily wear.
Breguet Classique Moon Phase Ref. 3300BA
Few individuals have had as profound an impact on the field of watchmaking as Abraham-Louis Breguet. His remarkable technical innovations have left a lasting legacy, with certain components bearing his name still in use more than two centuries after his passing. The influence of Breguet extends beyond the technical realm and is evident on the dial side as well. He pioneered a distinct style that continues to inspire watchmakers to this day. From renowned watchmaker Roger Smith to the recently unveiled Care Barrett Timex, one can observe Breguet’s influence in various aspects, be it the dial layout featuring intricate guilloché patterns and Roman numerals or his signature Arabic numerals that proudly bear his name. Breguet’s indelible imprint on watchmaking is undeniable, shaping the artistry and design language that endures through generations.
This 30mm timepiece crafted from 18k yellow gold exemplifies the exquisite beauty of a Breguet watch. The dial itself is also made of gold, chosen for its malleable properties that allow for the intricate guilloché work showcased here. Guilloché patterns are meticulously created by skilled artisans – with one hand working a wheel and the other guiding a cutting tool, the artisan etches the desired pattern into the dial, achieving the perfect depth and consistent spacing. Mastering this craft takes years of dedicated practice, and the complexity increases with each additional pattern introduced. The central hobnail pattern represents a timeless classic, while the vertical waves on the sub-dials offer a more contemporary interpretation.
Each ring of numerals, whether the Roman hour markers or the Breguet-style seconds numerals, is delicately framed by its own meticulously guilloched lines. It is worth noting that the creation of this dial alone demands more time and expertise from the artisan than many watches within its price range would require for their entire construction process.
The addition of heat-blued Breguet hands and a coin edge on the case adds the finishing touches to the traditional presentation from this renowned watchmaker. An off-center moonphase located at 10 o’clock introduces a touch of whimsical astrology to the dial. This watch serves as a testament to the notion that greatness can indeed be found in small packages.
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