Pre-Owned Picks: A Close-Up Of A Grand Seiko, A Dual Time Vacheron Overseas, And A Cartier Tank Américaine In Full White Gold
Each week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. Captured by our talented in-house photographers, you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. This week we zoom into the finishing of a Grand Seiko dial, the elegance of Cartier, the movement design of Vacheron Constantin, and the hand engraving of Glashutte Original.
Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 Sōkō Frost USA Exclusive Special Edition Ref. SBGH295
This 2022 US-exclusive Grand Seiko continues the watchmaker’s tradition of drawing inspiration for their dials from the natural beauty of Japan. The Soko dial design is a reflection of the enchanting scenery during the first frost, where delicate ice crystals begin to form. The captivating ice blue dial showcases a gentle texture of interlaced lines, precisely capturing the appearance of the thin layer of ice that gracefully envelopes outdoor surfaces when temperatures drop to freezing levels. The dial’s design effortlessly transports wearers to the serene and breathtaking winter landscapes of Japan.
Take a moment to explore the close-up shot of the hands and dial. Zoom in and scrutinize every surface meticulously. We’ll wait as you immerse yourself in the intricate details of these exceptionally-finished watches.You can clearly observe that the hands have been delicately brushed on the top surface, while the sides have been polished to a remarkable mirrored perfection. The dial work becomes even more awe-inspiring at magnification, as the minute marks that create the frost-like texture are crafted with precision, spanning fractions of a millimeter in length.
The more time you invest in the details of the watch, the deeper your appreciation will grow for what Grand Seiko has to offer.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Ref. 7900V/110A-B546
I recently asked a question to a watchmaker who worked for both Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, Royal Oak or Overseas? It took half a beat for the answer to be a very clear nod to the Overseas. Looking at the perfectly polished sharp interior angles and the slight beveling that takes an expert hand, it can become clear why the answer was given as the only obvious choice, and that is only talking about the bracelet.
Now in its third generation, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has grown in popularity but has not reached a critical mass in pop culture like its holy trinity siblings, the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Instead, with production numbers that are less than half of its competition, this is the luxury sports watch for those in the know.
The inky black dial on this dual time Overseas is classic, legible, and mesmerizing, thanks to how deep the simple color appears. This is a refined travel watch that does away with a separate GMT bezel. Instead, pull the crown out to the first position, and the hour hand will quickly jump as you turn it to help set the local time. The date wheel is just as easy to set with a push of a button on the second crown.
Being a watch bearing the Geneva Sealed – like nearly every Vacheron Constantin – both the movement and the case must adhere to a standard of finishing set forth by the Canton of Geneva. This means not only does every bridge, jewel slot, and screw hole have to be beveled and polished, but also the internal angles of every gear must be given the same attention no matter if they are visible or not. This detail will have you swinging the engraved 22k gold rotor around so you can take a loupe to every millimeter of the Caliber 5110 DT.
Cartier Tank Américaine Small Ref. W26019L1
Yes, this watch may be quartz-powered, but its allure goes beyond the movement. With its minimalist two-hand design and the opulence of 18k white gold, it exudes elegance and sophistication. While some watch enthusiasts may unfairly criticize quartz movements, they do offer distinct advantages that mechanical watches cannot match.
Quartz timepieces provide unmatched accuracy and reliability, ensuring that the watch keeps precise time without the need for daily winding or constant wear. The amalgamation of a refined design, precious materials, and the convenience of quartz makes this timepiece a valuable addition to any collection, regardless of movement preference.
This Cartier is characterized by its minimalist approach, eschewing any need for complications or unnecessary frills. It embodies a style of understated sophistication that speaks volumes about the wearer’s taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship.
Cartier’s signature elements, such as Roman numerals, blue sword hands, and the iconic jewel-adorned crown, are all unmistakable and instantly recognizable from a distance. These design elements not only add to the watch’s aesthetic appeal but also serve as a symbol of Cartier’s legacy of luxury and refined craftsmanship.
In summary, the Cartier Tank Américaine, with its in-house quartz movement, epitomizes simplicity and style, making it a timeless classic and a statement of elegance that carries the legacy of Cartier’s watchmaking expertise.
The stretched-out and slightly curved profile of the Cartier Tank Américaine pays homage to the iconic Cartier Tank Cintrée and Gruen Curvex watches of the 1920s and ’30s. This elegant shape not only embraces the wrist with comfort but also bestows a larger and more noticeable presence compared to the traditional Cartier Tank.
The gold case adds a touch of opulence and gives the timepiece a distinct sense of occasion. It evokes the feeling that this watch is part of a rich legacy of watch design that spans over a century, reflecting the timeless allure of Cartier’s craftsmanship.
The Cartier Tank Américaine stands as a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy of elegance and artistry, encapsulating the spirit of bygone eras while remaining a statement of contemporary style and sophistication.
Glashutte Original PanoReserve Ref. 1-65-01-23-12-04
In this writer’s humble opinion, Glashutte Original is the most under-appreciated brand in all of watchmaking. While the quartz crisis was forcing companies to abandon mechanical movements causing a generation of watchmaking knowledge to nearly be lost, Glashutte was stuck behind the Iron Curtain in East Germany.
The downside on the watchmaking side was every watch had to be utilitarian, timing for the masses that didn’t prioritize finishing, complications, or experimentation. What turned out to be an upside after the reunification of Germany was that GO missed the quartz crisis. They had spent that time manufacturing mechanical movements that they designed, with tools they had to build themselves too. The result was a company that could make the screwdriver for the screw they made to put into the bridge of a movement they created and produced in-house that then powered a watch that was assembled under the same roof that made the original screwdriver.
This brings us to this lovely PanoReserve, a manual wound asymmetrical beauty. The time-telling portion of the dial is pushed off to the left, with two interlocking rings dividing the hour and minutes up top and the seconds down below. The date window uses two wheels that slide next to each other, one for each numeral. The whole dial is made by Glashutte Original and is coated in ruthenium, bestowing a unique grey hue that is breathtaking in person.
Flip the watch over, and you will be treated to a three-quarter German silver plate movement that has hand-engraved bridges topped with double swan neck regulators. The level of detail in the finishing is often only found on watches double the price of the Panoreserve, or more. For the price of an Oyster Perpetual, this Glashutte Original is an heirloom-quality watch that could easily be a grail for any watch enthusiast.
Explore all of our available pre-owned watches in the Hodinkee Shop.
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