Photo Report: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of ‘The Collectibles’
First introduced in January of this year to celebrate Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 190th anniversary, the Collectibles is the manufacturer’s new program focused on restoring its vintage watches from what it calls the golden age of 20th-century watchmaking, the 1920s to 1970s. Last week, JLC unveiled its second collection of vintage watches under the Collectibles in Los Angeles, offering 11 historically important watches for sale.
Image courtesy of Brandon Menancio
What makes the Collectibles special is the thought and effort that goes into acquiring, and then fully servicing and restoring this small collection of vintage watches. I don’t need to tell you about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prowess as a movement manufacturer here, but even in this small collection of 11 watches its historical innovation is on full display: there’s the caliber 101, launched in 1929 as the smallest mechanical movement ever; the Futurematic, with the caliber 497 that featured a number of innovations (including a special six-hour power reserve that allows it to immediately run when put on); and five Memovox examples, JLC’s chirping alarm watch.
A Memovox with a blue dial that looks a bit like lapis lazuli but is actually a blue lacquer.
Jaeger-LeCoultre says it has a team of 10 specialized restoration watchmakers that work on its vintage timepieces. Since JLC is a vertical manufacturer and pretty much always has been, these watchmakers have access to the brand’s archives and the schematics for every caliber ever made. Sometimes, a spare part for a decades-old movement will even be available for the service. But if they can’t find a certain component, the watchmakers are able to make a new one from scratch.
While this is the method for mechanical restoration, JLC tries to minimize restoration work to the case and dial, preferring these to be kept as close as possible to original condition. This emphasis on originality was on full display with this second capsule collection – each of the 11 pieces was in collector-grade condition. The focus on originality starts with the acquisition process, a charge led by Matthieu Suaret, Director of Product and Heritage at JLC. The brand’s collection now consists of a couple thousand pieces, but Suaret only tries to find examples in good and original condition. Like any obsessive buyer of collectible vintage watches, that means he says he’s constantly checking auctions and listings around the world. We were able to hang out for a few days in L.A. around the launch of the Collectibles, and he was quick to show off his latest acquisitions from the U.K. (an Atmos clock), Japan, or a small auction house in Louisiana (the triple calendar for this capsule collection).
A center-seconds Reverso from the second capsule of the Collectibles; it was sold by the end of the evening.
Three Memovox examples from the ’70s included in this edition of the Collectibles.
With the launch of the Collectibles at its Rodeo Drive boutique, Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a few collector-focused events to feature this edition of the Collectibles, along with a number of other vintage watches from its archives.
All 11 watches from this edition of the Collectibles were introduced at JLC’s new Rodeo Drive boutique in Los Angeles on June 15.
Alongside the actual watches, JLC has produced The Collectibles book, documenting the history of 17 of its most important models.
One couple came away with two watches by the end of the evening that the Collectibles were introduced: a triple calendar and a 1920s Duoplan.
The 1920s Duoplan with a black dial was one of my favorites from the collection.
A trio of Memovox watches from the Collectibles that are unapologetically ’70s, including this Speed Beat GT, named because of the high-frequency cal. 916 inside.
A collection of JLC’s archive pieces.
Alongside the Collectibles, JLC also had a number of watches from its archives on hand like this Memovox “Parking,” introduced in 1958.
No parking tickets here.
The Memovox “Snowdrop” is a massive chuck of yellow gold on a brick bracelet. Supposedly, about 12 were made in white gold – if you ever find one, give JLC’s museum a call.
The Futurematic featured a number of mechanical innovations, but it’s most recognizable because of its symmetrical design that does away with the traditional 3 o’clock crown.
The 11 watches from this edition of the Collectibles illustrate the great variety in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designs and mechanical innovations from the 1920s through the 1920s. The collection starts with an elegant Duoplan from the 1920s on a yellow gold bracelet, and by the 1970s we see JLC producing those massive Memovox watches, where the only thing louder than the large case and color combos is the jarring alarm itself. You can check out this entire collection of the Collectibles on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website – for those who just want to learn about the watches, I can’t recommend enough finding yourself a copy of The Collectibles book. Each of the 11 watches comes with a copy of this book, an extract from the archives, and a few have their original box and papers.
Now in its second capsule collection, the Collectibles shows how a manufacturer can transparently service, restore, and present its vintage watches to support the heritage of its brand. Here’s a look at all 11 watches from this collection:
During a panel discussion with Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne of Wind Vintage, Suaret’s passion for the Collectibles project and for JLC was on full display.
“Technology and design are not two separate worlds,” Suaret said. “Technicality means nothing if it doesn’t serve a purpose – these two worlds have to talk with each other.” This philosophy is apparent in JLC’s historic timepieces and, increasingly, in the way it approaches its modern products. Take this year’s Reverso Ultra-thin Flying Tourbillon (photo below): sure, a flying tourbillon is kind of cool to look at and all, but if it’s not wearable it doesn’t mean much. So, JLC manufactured the new caliber 847 to fit in its slim 9.15mm Reverso case and added a second time zone for good measure.
This is the perfect example of design driving innovation and vice versa that can be seen throughout Jaeger-LeCoultre’s vintage catalog. JLC’s caliber 101, the smallest mechanical movement in the world when it was introduced in 1929, allowed for all kinds of gorgeous shapes and designs, some of which were on display in L.A. Of course, alarms and triple calendars and anti-magnetism would define the ensuing golden age of watchmaking for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Even the case of the Reverso is a technical marvel, taking more than 50 components to create the simple and seamless flipping case.
This year’s Tribute Reverso Chronograph and Duoface Tourbillon releases, along with the simpler Reverso Small Seconds, seem to hint at a Jaeger-LeCoultre that’s learning from the history on full display with the Collectibles. It’s not making Gyrotourbillons for Gyrotourbillons’ sake (though I suppose there’s a place for that). Perhaps it’s learning as much from the Collectibles as I am, I can’t say. All I can say is this year’s releases got me excited for the Reverso in a way I haven’t always been. This is JLC making wearable watches that think of technology and design hand-in-hand, the way JLC did during the golden age that’s proudly presented in the Collectibles.
While the events in L.A. were centered around the release of the Collectibles and these 11 watches lived up to their top billing, they weren’t the only watches on display. Friends and collectors also came out wearing their best JLC watches (along with some others that we’ll allow for this Photo Report).
Jager-LeCoultre’s Rodeo Drive boutique
An especially elegant and bite-sized Reverso on Andrea’s wrist.
Director of Product and Heritage Matthieu Sauret wore his Reverso Ultra-thin 1931 in rose gold.
A vintage Reverso with a stunning blue dial from JLC’s archives.
Josh Hendizadeh’s vintage Cartier with a JLC caliber inside. If you look at the profile of this watch, you’ll see that the sharply angled case left little room inside for a mechanical movement, a perfect problem for JLC’s technical innovations to solve.
A vintage Memovox with a friendly reminder.
The Reverso Grande Date, inside and out
TikTok’s Mike Noveau and his fuschia GMT-Master.
A couple showed up with a couple of Rowing Blazer’s limited collabs with Tudor and Seiko.
A gold Geophysic – for the fancy scientist.
JLC had a watchmaker in attendance to demonstrate some of the traditional techniques it used to restore the Collectibles.
A vintage Dunhill with blue dial, Breguet numerals, and a JLC caliber.
One’s a hobby, two’s a collection, right?
Add diamonds to taste.
Stephen’s Universal Geneve Tri-Compax.
Talking Watches alums Aly & AJ showed up to talk watches.
AJ Michalka’s Patek 404J.
Aly Michalka’s Daytona 116520.
Fred Savage and his Memovox
New Jaeger-LeCoultre innovations were on display too. Here, the Tribute Duoface Tourbillon, an ultra-thin (9.15mm) flying tourbillon that also happens to display a second time zone on the reverse side. Sometimes, it feels like the two faces of the Reverso are a canvas for innovation. Image courtesy of Brandon Menancio
Two tiny vintage Jaeger-LeCoultres, worn by Hovigs Supply House.
Pull out the magnifying glass and you’ll see one is signed Cartier on the dial.
GQ’s Cam Wolf and his vintage Tavannes.
JLC hosted a panel discussion with Suaret, along with Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne of Wind Vintage.
Gentleman dealer Wind wearing his Tribute to 1931 US Edition, a favorite around here.
A vintage Master Mariner with gorgeous red enamel hour markers
A Dimepiece sighting.
A few more watches from JLC’s archives.
No one makes tiny watches like JLC.
Lead image courtesy of Brandon Menancio.
Hodinkee
