Introducing: The Zenith x Collective Defy Skyline C.X Edition (Live Pics)
What We Know
The first time we covered Collective Horology, it was a private watch club based in Silicon Valley, composed primarily of members in the Silicon Valley tech sector, as they debuted their first collaboration – a limited edition with Zenith that took the standard 38mm El Primero Chronomaster and stripped down the color palette to something that was refreshingly bright yet monochrome. Back then, the collaboration turned heads with its successful (and sold-out) design, but also in small part because it was a collaboration you couldn’t obtain unless you were part of the invitation-only club.
Five years later, Collective Horology has also become an online retailer of independent watches, expanding its presence to a much larger audience, though the continued collaborations are not limited to its portfolio of stocked brands. Today, founders Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of Collective Horology revisit their partnership with Zenith by releasing Collective’s tenth collaboration, a very Collective take on Zenith’s Defy Skyline series with the Defy Skyline C.X Edition.
The Defy Skyline series debuted in 2022 as a sub-line within the larger Defy series. It cites inspiration from the original late 60s/early 70s Zenith Defy models. The modern touches are a cleaned-up silhouette, a prominent four-point star motif on the dial, and a frantic tenth-of-a-second sub-dial with a hand that jumps ten times a second.
If you compared one of the standard Defy Skylines with the new Collective edition, you’ll be hard-pressed to ignore that the two, while both very much sharing the same traits of the line, could not feel more different. This is mostly the result of many small yet significant changes that add up to something bigger. From a material standpoint, the stainless steel case and bracelet are entirely sandblasted, giving a very matte finish that tones down the aggression of the twelve-sided bezel. While the slanted middle ring of the Defy Skyline bezel is typically fully polished, the top and middle facets are sandblasted this time, with only the side of the bezel ring fully polished. The 41mm case is 11.6mm in thickness with a 46.3mm lug-to-lug (not including bracelet or strap flare-out).
The biggest changes lie in the matte silver-grey dial. While the standard star motif on Defy Skyline dials is uniform, the motif on the C.X Edition is dynamic. A close inspection reveals that the stars on the new dial are engraved deeper towards the center of the dial and become shallower further away. This gives a very subtle radial gradient effect that isn’t immediately noticeable but becomes very obvious once scrutinized under a loupe. In addition, the dial has been given some additional breathing room, as the star motif no longer protrudes to the edges of the dial.
In a move very obviously intended for the very vocal portion of the watch-collecting community (and in the same manner as Collective’s first collaboration with Zenith), the date window has been completely omitted. To balance out the new layout of the watch, the tenth-of-a-second subdial is shifted from 9 o’clock to the more traditional 6 o’clock position. This isn’t technically new, in the sense that we’ve already seen the indicator at 6 o’clock debut on the Defy Skyline Skeleton models from Zenith, but it’s the first time we’ve seen it on a solid dial. The “10” marking of the subdial is printed in a bright orange to complement the same color found on the tip of the indicator hand.
On the back of the watch, the sapphire caseback reveals a modified version of the high-frequency El Primero 3620 caliber, no doubt a result of the new position of the subdial. The caliber beats at 5Hz, with a power reserve of 55 hours. A close look shows the purple silicon escape wheel commonly associated with modern Zenith calibers. The piece I photographed was a prototype, which did not have any of the engravings around the caseback ring that the production pieces have, including a “C.X” marking, as well as “ONE OF 200.”
Of course, this is a modern Zenith Defy Skyline, which means an integrated bracelet with a quick-change system. In addition to the sandblasted steel bracelet, the C.X edition includes the Defy Skyline integrated rubber strap, this time in a bright orange to match the color accent on the dial. The steel deployant clasp for the rubber strap is not sandblasted, however, and sports the brushed finish found on the regular Defy Skyline models.
The Defy Skyline C.X Edition retails at $12,300 and is limited to 200 pieces. It will be available on the Collective Horology website and the Zenith online boutique.
What We Think
This is what the Defy Skyline should be. I’ve always found the standard editions to be a bit too odd for my liking – mostly coming from the star motif that seemed to exaggerate the span of the dial, as well as the positioning of the tenth-of-a-second indicator a 9 o’clock. It was too big of a subdial to be placed there without any equal counterweighting element, save for the date window across from it.
My favorite modification on this new collaboration, though seemingly insignificant, is that additional negative space on the center section of the dial paired with the gradual deepening of the engravings towards the center. It’s amazing to me how those little changes make the star motif seem way more elegant and feel more like a conscious design element rather than just something to fill up a large dial. It’s just a brilliant modification.
In person, this watch exudes a certain sleek industrial quality that I never found on the standard versions, and I think that’s what they were trying to go for. I have always loved sandblasted cases and bracelets since they give a much more modern sensibility to a watch design. That’s probably why the Chronomaster Revival Shadow is one of my favorite models in Zenith’s standard lineup. I also assume, however, that sandblasting is much harder to refinish uniformly, and the reason why more brands haven’t quite leaned into this finish yet. Regardless, I’m glad to see it here. It’s a touch that feels very Collective, almost a spiritual successor to the all-white-and-grey treatment of their El Primero.
On the wrist, this watch wears like its 41mm by 11.6mm dimensions would suggest, with the advantage of the integrated bracelet having a relatively short downturn that hugs the wrist. On the bright orange rubber strap, the watch perhaps wore a hair more compactly, but I wasn’t a big fan of the continuation of the star motif on the middle section of the strap.
This would be one for me to keep on the bracelet, if not just to appreciate even more of that sandblasted finish. While usually, I might have wished to see this in a smaller case size; I really think embracing this as an industrial, unabashedly modern Zenith in a 41mm case works for me. It’s certainly not an oversized watch – substantial but very enjoyable to wear. There’s something about that case finish that seemed to reflect light in a way that made the case glow. As far as collabs go, this one manages to offer a totally distinctive take on the Defy Skyline that hinges on proportion, negative space, and no small amount of sandblasting.
The Basics
Brand: Zenith
Model: Defy Skyline C.X Edition
Reference Number: 06.9300.3620/63.I001
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 11.6mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Silver
Indexes: Applied
Lume: SuperLuminova
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet and additional rubber strap with deployant clasp
The Movement
Caliber: El Primero 3620 SK
Functions: Hours, minutes, 1/10th of a second indicator
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36’000 VpH (5Hz)
Pricing & Availability
Price: $12,300
Availability: Collective Horology and Zenith Boutiques
Limited Edition: Yes, 200 pieces.
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