Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. – A Vintage Chronometric Resurrection To Honor The Brand’s Founder
What We Know
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Zenith, celebrating its 160th anniversary, introduces the G.F.J. — a thoroughly modern take on the time-only Caliber 135 chronometers of old. If you’re a student of the brand’s history, the additional three letters on the dial and simple model name might be obvious, and if you’re not familiar with Georges Favre-Jacot, you might be scratching your head. Both are totally fine. Put simply, the name tips a deeply-rooted focus towards Zenith’s history, the part before the great El Primero.
Back in 2022, Zenith collaborated with Kari Voutilainen on a run of ten watches powered by restored, vintage examples of the Caliber 135-O — the actual movements that were sent to Neuchâtel Observatory competitions during the early 1950s. Many collectors consider this very low production limited edition to be the best time-only Zenith watches created in decades. With a 38mm platinum case, a Comblémine-made guilloché dial, and hand-decorated movements by Voutilainen, the release was a rousing success and brought Zenith’s chronometer heritage to the attention of the watch world.
Today, with the G.F.J., Zenith builds on that limited 2022 collaboration. The story here is just as much about the movement as it is about the resulting watch.
In 1945, Zenith’s technical director, Charles Ziegler, tasked a watchmaker by the name of Ephrem Jobin with developing a chronometer movement that could compete at observatory competitions at the highest level. Jobin designed the 13 ligne Caliber 135 with a unique gear train arrangement. An off-center minutes wheel allowed for a larger bimetallic screwed “Guillaume” balance wheel (with Breguet overcoil) and a larger mainspring barrel for enhanced isochronism and precision. Ultimately, the “premium” version, the Caliber 135-O, would go on to claim over 230 best-in-class observatory chronometry prizes — more than any other movement in the history of watchmaking.
The “normal” version, the Caliber 135, was produced in a run of approximately 11,000 movements from 1948 to 1962. Essentially, this is the same movement as the Caliber 135-O. For observatory trials, Zenith’s most elite watchmakers like Charles Fleck and René Gygax would hand-select, tune, and regulate the best Caliber 135s to create Caliber 135-Os.
With the new-for-2025 G.F.J., Zenith will produce this legendary caliber for the first time since 1962. The new Caliber 135 has been ever so slightly re-engineered but maintains the original’s architecture and dimensions (13 lignes in diameter and 5mm in thickness). Operating at 2.5Hz, the hand-wound movement boasts a 72-hour power reserve, versus the original’s 40 hours. It features a top-seconds mechanism and is COSC-certified while going well beyond the COSC standard, ensuring accuracy within +/-2 seconds per day. The movement’s bridges are adorned with a distinctive “brick” guilloché pattern, paying homage to the red-and-white brick façade of Zenith’s historic manufacture in Le Locle.
Encased in a 39.15mm platinum case with a thickness of 10.5mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.75mm, the G.F.J. is a healthy, modern watch. Size aside, vintage touches and inspiration can be seen in the stepped bezel and lugs.
The dial features a center of deep blue lapis lazuli, naturally flecked with golden pyrite. The outer ring showcases the same “brick” guilloché pattern found on the movement, while the oversized small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is crafted from mother-of-pearl, adding a layer of texture and contrast. The faceted white gold hour makers and a minute track of 40 white gold beads are all applied by hand. Slim white gold hands complete the look.
Limited to 160 pieces, the G.F.J. is priced at $49,900 and is available for pre-order exclusively through Zenith’s boutiques and authorized retailers.
What We Think
As a vintage obsessive and lover of the Caliber 135, I can’t help but focus solely on the movement here. Bringing back a movement from decades ago is no easy task. Many times, the tooling is long gone, as are the watchmakers who know the caliber well. Brands have to start from scratch in these scenarios, and the R&D costs are massive. Knowing this, I firmly doff my cap to Zenith for bringing back its most historically important time-only caliber the right way.
The rest of the watch is done well. Clearly, the G.F.J. is a premium product meant to draw as much attention as possible to what’s under the hood. If Zenith were to have released a stainless steel, simpler, and less-expensive watch to announce this “new” caliber, it might not stand out from the crowd at Watches and Wonders. Although that hypothetical version might be a more commercially interesting product to a wider audience of watch enthusiasts, I can respect what Zenith is doing here.
The G.F.J. is a halo product. The 160 collectors who end up pulling the trigger will ultimately be over the moon, and the remaining Zenith-faithful or Zenith-curious will wait. A brand does not simply revive a movement after 60-plus years to produce 160 pieces — more Caliber 135-equipped releases are likely coming. If having the first and probably most wow-factor-enducing version of Zenith’s modern Caliber 135 is something that you’re after, this is the one for you. The G.F.J. is well thought out in every detail, the dial is gorgeous, and it will be one of the most interesting vintage-inspired releases of the entire Watches and Wonders 2025.
Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – you can follow all of the show’s new releases right here.
The Basics
Brand: Zenith
Model: G.F.J.
Reference Number: 40.1865.0135/51.C200
Diameter: 39.15mm (Lug-to-lug: 45.75 mm)
Thickness: 10.5mm
Case Material: Platinum 950
Dial Color: Blue bricks guilloché on the outer ring, lapis lazuli in the center, and mother-of-pearl small second counter
Indexes: White gold applied hour markers and dot minute markers
Lume: N/A
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Dark blue alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle, black calfskin leather, and blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather
The Movement
Caliber: Zenith Caliber 135
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 5mm
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 2.5 Hz / 18,000 vph
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC
Additional Details: Exclusive 160th Bricks guilloché finish, stop seconds mechanism
Pricing & Availability
Price: $49,900
Availability: Available for pre-order exclusively through Zenith’s boutiques and authorized retailers
Limited Edition: Yes, 160 pieces
For more, visit Zenith.
Hodinkee
