Introducing: The Rolex Perpetual 1908 In Yellow Gold On Bracelet
What We Know
For Watches & Wonders 2025, Rolex pushes the 1908 into a new chapter with the debut of a newly developed fully polished seven-link “Settimo” bracelet in 18 karat yellow gold, marking a decisively dressy aesthetic. The watch retains its specs: 39mm case diameter, 9.5mm thickness, and sapphire display caseback, and is still equipped with in-house calibre 7140.
The Settimo bracelet, designed specifically for the 1908 — and not adapted from any Oyster or Jubilee precedent — comprises seven small, highly articulated links across, each polished to a mirror finish. These links are machined with micro-tolerances to ensure flexibility, while maintaining rigidity under torque and stress. The bracelet is finished with a concealed Crownclasp, preserving the clean, uninterrupted aesthetic, and features a special system to attach it to the middle case, for which a patent has been filed. The Settimo bracelet is reserved for the 1908 model.
The dial remains quintessentially 1908: clean and classical, available in both black and white. It features applied Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, faceted gold hour markers, and a sunken small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The handset — a blend of a Breguet-style hour hand and sword-style minute hand — is cut and polished via diamond tooling to achieve mirror-level reflectivity, aiding low-light legibility despite the lack of luminous material.
What We Think
A call for the “return to dress watches” often feels like an empty refrain, casually tossed around by watch enthusiasts. But we do seem to be getting dressier chez Rolex by way of the 1908 line. While I can’t say a new bracelet is a deliberate move toward the more sculptural or heavily design-driven trends that are hot on the vintage market right now, what I can say is that the Settimo, with its seven gracefully articulated links, transforms the 1908 into something closer to a piece of jewelry. It also brings Rolex into the next level up of slim luxury dress-watches.
The Basics
Brand: Rolex
Model: Perpetual 1908
Reference Number: 52508
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 9.5mm
Case Material: 18 ct yellow gold
Dial Color: white and black
Indexes: applied
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: 18 ct yellow gold Settimo
The Movement
Caliber: 7140
Functions: Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Stop-seconds for exact time setting.
Power Reserve: 66 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4Hz
Additional Details: Syloxi hairspring in silicon with patented geometry. High-performance Paraflex shock absorber.
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 33,400
Limited Edition: No
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Hodinkee
