Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT PAM01575
What We Know
At Watches and Wonders, Panerai launches the new Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575, a follow-up to the 33-piece limited edition of the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 launched back in 2022. When the PAM01269 first launched, it was certainly one of Panerai’s most strikingly modern watches, with a smoked sapphire dial playing off of the complications of the watch.
This new “Platinumtech” version (more on that in a little bit) serves as a very straightforward sequel to the first, with the same applied classic Panerai numerals and indices sitting on top of a dial that subtly reveals the day and date disks underneath. Printed on the dark blue-tinted sapphire dial are markings of the brand’s Luminor logo, a small seconds track, and two metal frames surrounding the day and date windows at 3 o’clock. The small seconds track also shows AM and PM markings to double up as a 24-hour subdial, as underneath the seconds hand sits a small dark blue arrow to serve as a day/night indicator. A larger dark blue arrow stems from the center post for the GMT complication.
This perpetual calendar is set in the 44mm Luminor case, with the iconic Panerai crown guard on the right side of the case. This time, the watch is in Platinumtech, a platinum alloy from the brand that Panerai claims has a 40% increase in hardness and thus higher scratch resistance compared to standard 950 platinum due to a treatment of the metal.
Despite being a perpetual calendar GMT, the dial side of the PAM01575 is surprisingly minimalistic. But once you turn the watch over, you find that a lot of the indications typically reserved for the front have been moved over to the back. With Panerai’s manufacture P.4100 movement, there are indicators for month, year, as well as leap year. The automatic movement with a gold microrotor features three days of power reserve stored in two barrels, with the remaining power displayed by a smaller disc next to the rotor. Impressively, the caliber allows the wearer to adjust all aspects of the perpetual calendar by the crown — no recessed pushers here — and has been idiot-proofed in that the caliber can be adjusted forward and backward without any danger zones, even in the typical restrictions around midnight or the end of the year. That means that you can’t overset the watch at all, even with the full-year indication in the caliber. The date discs are stabilized with a shock protection system to allow for the complicated movement to stand up to everyday wear, and with a water resistance of 50 meters, this is a perpetual calendar that can be taken into the water.
The PAM01575 is paired with a dark blue alligator strap and an additional blue rubber strap, and is available exclusively at Panerai boutiques, priced at $67,600.
What We Think
Panerai cases are typically too large for my taste — the classic ones, at least. But when the original Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo with sapphire dial came out, it had my attention. When Panerai decides to develop a high-end conceptual piece, I typically think of the large skeletonized framework dials of watches like the Luminor Lo Scienziato PAM00578. While they’re cool, the sapphire dial of this design grabbed my attention due to its modern execution with a lot more restraint.
I’ll be completely honest in that I just took the original Goldtech version at face value and did not read much about the actual underlying P.4100 movement. This new Platinumtech version launching at Watches and Wonders has certainly sent me down that rabbit hole, and I have to say that I am very impressed by the caliber. The caliber, launched in 2021, is certainly a boon to Panerai in that amongst a history of controversy around movements, this one certainly fully showcases the engineering capabilities of the brand. With the case being white metal, the new PAM01575 also continues to be even stealthier than its full gold predecessor, making this a really interesting complication that one could realistically rock in any scenario.
Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – you can follow all of the show’s new releases right here.
The Basics
Brand: Panerai
Model: Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech
Reference Number: PAM01575
Diameter: 44mm
Case Material: Platinumtech
Dial Color: Dark blue-tinted sapphire
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap and additional rubber strap
The Movement
Caliber: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, day/night indicator, GMT, perpetual calendar, power reserve
Diameter: 35.1mm
Thickness: 7mm
Power Reserve: 3 days
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Jewels: 55
Additional Details: Patented date shock protection system and patented GMT spring
Pricing & Availability
Price: $67,600
Availability: Panerai boutiques
Limited Edition: No, limited annual production.
For more, click here.
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