Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition
What We Know
Earlier this year, at Watches & Wonders in April, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the celebrations for both the 30th anniversary of the brand as well as the 25th anniversary of the Datograph. Two show-stopper novelties were introduced: the 125-piece Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold and the 50-piece Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen in Honeygold. Today, Lange shows that they’re not done with celebrating the Datograph just yet, as they announce an all-new Datograph Handwerkskunst in yellow gold. I know I’m usually supposed to save my reactions until the “What We Think” portion of the article, but wow, this one’s stunning.
The 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst.
The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst.
The Handwerkskunst series has always been a flagship collection from Lange, highlighting the best and most complicated hand-finishing and engraving techniques from the Glashütte-based brand. Starting in 2011, the brand introduced quite a few of these editions in small limited edition runs – from an 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst to a starry and whimsical 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst. Unlike the Lumen series, with its signature sapphire dials and fully-lumed elements, the Handwerkskunst series doesn’t stick to a particular aesthetic. To me, however, the most iconic editions are the ones with the tremblage-decorated dials in relief.
With this new release, Lange creates a watch that pays homage to the deep history of the Datograph with maximum visual flair. Using the same 41mm case as the current-production Up/Down, the Datograph Handwerkskunst features a complex tremblage engraving on the yellow-gold, black-rhodium treatment for the main dial in addition to the light-grey rhodium subdials. As a result, all of the elements typically printed on the dial are a part of the solid yellow-gold dial, carved in relief in contrast to the hand-engraved tremblage finish on the rest of the dial.
While the Roman numerals and hour indices are applied, elements like the tachymeter and minutes track are actually a part of the solid yellow-gold dial.
To accomplish the texture of this three-dimensional dial, the engraver uses a specially crafted lining burin to create a fine-grained contrast, while preserving all of the other elements. Looking up close, it is an absolute feat of artistry to be able to preserve the sharpness of all the elements in relief, especially taking into account the minuscule size and angles of elements such as the A. Lange & Söhne logo, minutes and seconds markers, and the tachymeter scale. Finally, the indices and Roman numerals are applied to the dial after chamfering and straight graining.
Just as significant to the decoration of the dial is the fact that this is the first time we are once again seeing a Datograph being produced in yellow-gold, albeit in very small numbers, outside of the original 39mm Datograph 403.041, nicknamed the “Yellowjacket.” But even that watch remains a bit of a mystery, as it was never formally included in the Lange catalog, and the rumor is that the total production of the Yellowjacket rivals the quantity of this new limited edition. Does this watch implicitly validate the Yellowjacket? Lange certainly doesn’t outright say this, but one might suspect that it’s a bit of a wink to the die-hard collector.
The original 403.041 “Yellowjacket.” Image: courtesy of Phillips
The new Datograph Handwerkskunst. See the similarities?
You might also notice that this watch, while in the same case as the Datograph Up/Down, isn’t actually an Up/Down. Paired with Roman numerals at two, six, and 10 o’clock, the removal of the Up/Down power reserve typically seen in place of a six o’clock index is sure to signify that this model is meant as an homage to the first generation of the chronograph, released in 1999.
Turn the watch over, and you see the mechanical metropolis that is the L951.8 manually wound chronograph movement. While the movement has been covered many times on Hodinkee, what sets this version apart is the continuation of the principles of Handwerkskunst. Most visually notable will be the frosted finishing on the German silver movement plate, which we have seen in the past accompany many of the special Handwerkskunst and Homage to F.A. Lange pieces.
This time, however, some additional handwork goes into black polishing every single chronograph lever, meaning that at one angle all of these fully-polished parts will appear jet black. With the other frosted movements we’ve seen, the levers have been traditionally brushed on top. This mirror polishing is sure to provide a striking contrast in the movement.
Finally, the hand-engraved balance cock seen accompanying every single Lange watch also receives a Handwerkskunst twist. In the Datograph Handwerkskunst, the balance cock receives a relief-engraved vine pattern, a fun twist on the floral motifs we’ve seen in most of their engravings.
The vine motif, engraved in relief.
The contrast between frosted plates and black polished levers.
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst is limited to 25 pieces all of which are exclusively offered via A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.
What We Think
If you haven’t already figured it out, I think this is an absolutely stunning watch. I suspect most people reading this would agree with me. Handwerkskunst models from Lange are just a treat and a half to see, and while they are destined to only go to a small handful of collectors, I just love this series as a flagship demonstration of what the brand is capable of.
The Datograph Handwerkskunst, in the best way possible, maintains a sense of Teutonic austerity that somehow manages to be stunningly theatrical in its showmanship. It just feels incredibly… Lange. In the few times that I’ve been lucky enough to see one of the tremblage-engraved relief dials from the brand, I’ve always been blown away. Surely there’s no way an artisan can finish everything on the dial like that without nicking any of the three-dimensional elements on the dial? I guess that’s why I’m mashing away at a keyboard and not working on one of these watches in Glashütte.
In a way that almost supersedes the two novelties at Watches & Wonders, this release feels like one for die-hard collectors. In a sense, it’s a completely modernized take on the original Datograph, and this one comes closest to truly feeling like a celebration of the original.
They had me at Datograph in yellow gold, but the Handwerkskunst decoration is an entire jar of maraschino cherries on top. Since it’s a release of 25 pieces, I’m sure these will all be spoken for almost immediately. Lange lists the price as “Price on Request,” but with the pricing for special editions in the past year, the retail for this watch will be nothing to scoff at. For the one who wants the ultimate Datograph and for whom money is no object, this one could be it.
The Basics
Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Datograph Handwerkskunst
Reference Number: 405.048F
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 13.1mm
Case Material: 750 yellow gold
Dial: 750 yellow gold with tremblage-engraved black rhodium finishing on the main dial and tremblage-engraved grey rhodium finishing on the subdials
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched dark-brown alligator leather strap with yellow gold deployant clasp
The Movement
Caliber: L951.8
Functions: Hours, minutes, outsized date, flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 7.9mm
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Jewels: 43
Chronometer Certified:
Additional Details: Frosted finish with black polished levers, hand-engraved balance cock with vine motif in relief
Pricing & Availability
Price: On Request
Availability: A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques
Limited Edition: Yes, 25 pieces, individually numbered
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
