Introducing: TAG Heuer Redesigns The Mechanical Formula 1 Chronograph
What We Know
This year, on the 75th anniversary of Formula 1, Tag Heuer takes the Crown, so to speak, and becomes the motorsport’s Official Timekeeper. In a highly speculated move stemming from last year’s official announcement of Rolex being replaced by LVMH via a 10-year partnership with the sport, many correctly assumed that TAG Heuer would be the brand to place their name high and wide at the races. After all, the brand has had quite a relationship with F1 in the past.
It’s not a surprise to anyone, I’m sure, that the brand has taken this opportunity to come out with a few novelties under their Formula 1 collection – this time, the collection name on the dial has slightly more meaning to it. Though I had been secretly praying for a standard collection of last year’s Kith and TAG Heuer Formula 1 collaboration, today the brand launches a series of 5 automatic chronographs with a new case shape and vivid accents, one of them a special edition to continue TAG’s relationship with Oracle Red Bull Racing.
This new 44mm wide and 14.1mm thick case is blocky and angular, almost a bit tonneau. I put this case shape in front of colleagues as a Rorschach test of sorts, and I got answers from Porsche Design and Tutima to Seiko’s “Samurai”. TAG Heuer says that the case lines are inspired by the aerodynamic lines of F1 cars, with the nose of the car being the primary inspiration – I’ll admit I’m struggling to see the connection, but I find the case shape quite charming in the context of the overall design. Despite the large measurement on paper, the diameter seems more wearable than would be expected given the reasonable 47.3mm lug-to-lug.
The cases are constructed out of grade-2 titanium, with three of them DLC-coated to achieve that dark contrasting finish. All four standard models feature a DLC-coated fixed aluminum tachymeter bezel surrounding a flat sapphire crystal. The four also feature DLC-coated crowns and pushers – the model with the non-coated case makes for even more contrast. Sitting inside the case and easily spotted based on the chronograph register layout on the dial is TAG’s Caliber 16, based on the ETA 7750.
It wouldn’t be a stereotypical Formula 1 model without some funky and bright colors, and this time TAG has tastefully injected doses of them into each watch – two with red accents, one in light blue, and one in lime green. The black dial features the color accent in a lacquered track around the applied indices, and the accent also shows prominently in the TAG shield on the bezel as well as chronograph hands and five-minute indicators.
While the non-DLC model has a bright red rubber strap to complete the look, the black cases feature a complementary black strap for a stealthy vibe, but very cleverly reveal the matching color accent in the mid–layer of the strap, shown on the sides. A tang buckle completes the strap, though a deployant clasp would have certainly fit more with the streamlined approach of this design. Taking a look at the side of the case, you find a joint between the bezel and the case, also in the matching color, peeking out behind cutouts in the titanium.
Last but not least – the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing edition mixes it up a bit. The case, pushers, and crown shed any DLC coating, going for a more natural metal look, but all the parts are sandblasted for a modernized feel. The bezel is, this time, in forged carbon, and the dial is unsurprisingly in the colors of the Oracle Red Bull Racing team. The blue dial goes for a more on-the-nose checkered pattern, but it looks quite nice in execution. And of course, the caseback features the full corporate branding of the team and collaboration.
The non-coated Formula 1 Chronograph retails at $4,700, while the three DLC-coated models retail at $4,900. The Oracle Red Bull Racing edition is priced at $5,450 but is not a limited edition. The models will be available progressively throughout the year, with the red models and the Red Bull Racing edition available in February.
What We Think
While I can’t say the same about many of the previous models in the modern Formula 1 assortment, I have to admit… I like these. They’re a great evolution for the range. The new case shape is a good move to start carving out a more distinct identity amongst the very disjointed current product line, and I’m impressed by the level of attention put to things such as the execution of color accents on the dial as well as the sculpting of the pushers and incorporation of two colors in the straps. Red Bull Racing edition aside, there is a surprising level of restraint in these watches that I certainly do not associate with the past, making these a bit more compelling as everyday sport watches and not just something you put on while watching Grands Prix on your television at home.
While no doubt still a chunky watch on the wrist, the lug-to-lug means that this is a somehow slightly more compact offering on the wrist amongst its sporty-chronograph competitors in the price range – the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph and the Longines Conquest Chronograph, to name a few. I’ve noticed that in the past few releases from TAG involving a redesigned case, the brand keeps mentioning wearability and lug-to-lug as points of consideration, undoubtedly a good thing.
On an unrelated note, it’s a bit puzzling to me to stagger out the release of the different colorways in different months. I assume it will have something to do with highlighting a particular model at specific Formula 1 races throughout the year, but only time will tell. But if these chronographs are an indicator for the future of the Formula 1 line, consider me intrigued.
The Basics
Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Formula 1 Chronograph
Reference Number: CBZ2082.FT8096 (Red); CBZ2085.FT8093 (Red DLC); CBZ2084.FT8097 (Blue); CBZ2086.FT8098 (Lime); CBZ2080.FT8091 (Oracle Red Bull Racing)
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 14.1mm
Case Material: Grade-2 titanium (some models with DLC coating). Aluminum or forged carbon bezel.
Dial Color: Black with colored accents; Blue with checkered pattern (Oracle Red Bull Racing edition)
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 200m
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap with pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: Tag Heuer Caliber 16 (7750-based)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Pricing & Availability
Price: $4,700 (Red), $4,900 (DLC models), $5,450 (Red Bull Racing)
Availability: Red and Red Bull Racing models available now, Blue and Lime later this year
Limited Edition: No.
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
