Introducing: Nivada Grenchen Announces A Pair Of Valjoux 23-Powered Limited Editions For The Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver
What We Know
Nivada Grenchen is pulling out one of the coolest tricks in their book with a new (old stock) batch of 50 restored vintage Valjoux 23 VZ (“Valjoux Zähler” or “Valjoux Chronograph”) movements, and the brand is finally putting them in two versions of what most people know as the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver – a broad-arrow reissue of arguably Nivada Grenchen’s most iconic vintage chronograph. Offered in two limited-edition examples (25 pieces each), this new watch features a vintage movement that complements its vintage styling.
The first is the “Chronograph Valjoux 23 Broad Arrow,” which features the words “Chronograph Aviator Sea Diver” (CASD for short) on the matte black dial, like versions of the watch released in 1963, with tinted vintage-style Super-Luminova in the broad arrow hands and hour markers. There’s also the red printed regatta countdown track on the 30-minute totalizer, a bi-directional no-click bezel, and a vintage-sized 38mm by 12.95mm 316L stainless steel case with drilled lug holes. The watch comes on a brown perforated racing strap.
The main draw of this LE is the Valjoux 23 VZ movement inside, which Nivada Grenchen has restored to modern specifications, tolerances, and quality – but the heart of it remains the same. Running at 18,000 bph with a 48-hour power reserve, the manually wound chronograph movement is visible through a display caseback, and the watch retains 100m of water resistance.
Now for something distinctly different, the Chronomaster Valjoux 23 Aventurine Blue reads “Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver” on the dial, but that’s not the biggest draw. The dial and the world time bezel are made out of blue aventurine – each unique from the others – with white printing, lume, and blue on the silver subdials for the regatta timer. Aventurine is quite stunning, especially if you haven’t seen it in person, and gives an effect reminiscent of the night sky.
Both watches have a double-domed sapphire crystal for an extra vintage effect. Preorders open on May 29, and I expect these will sell out fast. The watches will be delivered in two batches, one in July 2025 and the other in September. The price is $5,000 for either of the two versions.
What We Think
I’m a big fan of the CASD. It was one of the first affordable vintage watches I set my eyes on. Then Nivada Grenchen relaunched and provided largely the same experience for an even more affordable price.
With modern reliability and durability, well, you might not be surprised to hear I’m writing this story with a modern CASD on my wrist – one that I reviewed a few years ago. And yet, the release of a watch with a vintage Valjoux movement – finally in a CASD package – has me mulling over how nice it would be to have another in the collection.
Nivada Grenchen has done the Valjoux 23 reissue before, but I’ve always wanted it in the CASD design, so here it is. However, the aventurine dial is incredibly tempting. It’s a great-looking modern take on the watch for people who want something different than their vintage examples.
The Basics
Brand: Nivada Grenchen
Model: Chronograph Valjoux 23 Broad Arrow and Chronomaster Valjoux 23 Aventurine Blue
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 12.95mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Dial Color: Matte black or Aventurine Blue
Indexes: Printed and lumed
Lume: Vintage-tinted Super-LumiNova 148C indexes (black dial) or White Super-LumiNova (Aventurine)
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Brown perforated racing strap (black dial), blue calf leather strap (Aventurine)
The Movement
Caliber: Valjoux 23 VZ
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph with 30-minute counter
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 bph
Jewels: 17
Additional Details: Restored vintage new-old-stock movement; Double-domed sapphire crystal; Bidirectional rotating bezel with no “Click” or bidirectional rotating world time bezel in aventurine
Pricing & Availability
Price: $5,000 (Shipped from USA for USA buyers)
Availability: Preorder opens on May 29 – Subscribe on their site for more information.
Limited Edition: Yes, only 25 pieces of each. First batch of 13 (per model) delivered in July 2025; Second batch in September 2025
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
