Introducing: Grand Seiko Recreates The 45GS With The SLGW004 And SLGW005 Limited Editions (Live Pics)
What We Know
This week, Grand Seiko brings back into the modern catalog two recreations of an iconic vintage Grand Seiko model created back in 1968 – the 45GS – in a limited run. The 45GS is often seen as the little brother to the 44GS – released one year ahead of the 45GS in 1967; the 44GS was the watch that established the “grammar of design” that has defined the Grand Seiko’s creative philosophy for decades. While the 44GS has been modernized and finds a place in the modern catalog, albeit in a thicker and bulkier version, the 45GS hasn’t had the same kind of attention from the brand. In 2013, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of watchmaking at Seiko, the brand released a faithful 44GS recreation in a limited series across a variety of case metals. Today, the 45GS finally gets the same treatment, in stainless steel and yellow gold, with the SLGW004 and SLGW005.
The original 44Gs.
The original 45GS.
Originally produced from 1968 to 1973, the 45GS shared many visual similarities to the 44GS – a clear indication that the grammar of design conceived by Taro Tanaka had already been set. Like the 44GS, the 45GS was produced at the Daini factory, one of two famed production facilities for Seiko back in the day. The 45GS, however, did contain some subtle changes to separate itself from its brother. While we still saw dramatically polished case flanks, finely brushed shouldered lugs, and a partially recessed crown, various proportions were tweaked. From a 37mm case in the 44GS, the 45GS sported a slightly reduced 36.5mm case. Most importantly, the 45GS was the first in the Grand Seiko line to feature a high-beat movement, operating at 36,600 vph (5Hz).
Fast forward to today. In these brand-new stainless steel and yellow gold re-creations, the case design remains faithful to the original models, though it is slightly modernized to fit a new hand-winding movement at 38.8mm in diameter with 10.4mm thickness. The sloping case flanks and broad lugs of the 45GS are very much present in this iteration, and the contrast between the hairline finishing on the lug shoulders and the Zaratsu-polished case is dramatic. The dial colors and lettering, the brand says, are virtually identical to the originals. While from afar, it may appear solid, the dial features a slightly metallic, almost pearlescent, fine-grained texture. On the steel model, the color is a white eggshell, while on the gold model, the dial is slightly warmer with a light cream hue. Having seen these live, the difference was not that noticeable, at least under indoor lighting. The two applied logo elements on the dial are the vintage “Seiko” logo at 12 o’clock and the “GS” at 6 o’clock. The printed lettering on the dial is also like the original, with “HI-BEAT,” “36000,” and even the Daini factory logo seen in this iteration as an homage to the first.
The most modernized aspect of this watch is on the back. You’ll see the manually-wound high-frequency movement that was announced recently in April at Watches & Wonders, the Caliber 9SA4. With a Dual Impulse escapement and dual barrels, the watch has a power reserve of 80 hours, a much higher spec than the original Caliber 4250 in the 45GS. Right underneath the balance wheel, a power reserve features a heat-blued hand, and as a fun little trademark of this new architecture, a little wagtail bird acts as the movement’s ratcheting click.
The little wagtail bird-shaped click is a fun touch.
The power reserve indicator on the back.
Both watches will be available in November. The steel variant, priced at $9,700, is limited to 1200 pieces, and the yellow-gold model, priced at $30,000, is limited to 200 pieces.
What We Think
When Grand Seiko announced the new SLGW002 and SLGW003 hand-wound models at Watches & Wonders, I was all over the new movement. I think I’m still trying to warm up to the new Evolution 9 design language. With the SLGW004 and SLGW005, the pairing of the sharper and more defined case of the original 45GS with the brand-new movement is a fantastic combination. Some die-hard vintage Grand Seiko enthusiasts might criticize this so-called “recreation” as it eschews the typical solid caseback that we’ve seen in some prior iterations, thus breaking the illusion a bit. But I think that this movement deserves to be shown.
The architecture and finishing are a far step up from that of the more classic hand-wound movements from the brand, and what I love about this version is that the movement completely fills out the caseback. As a result, the watch feels like a successful exercise in marrying the old and the new, the defining criteria of any modern reissue.
On the wrist, the slightly upsized casing (a fair enough exchange for the new movement) still fits incredibly well on a variety of wrists, given the short lugs. Grand Seiko pairs these with black crocodile straps, but I think these watches scream for a beautiful casual calfskin strap. If the annual limited edition releases with a color change on the dial aren’t your speed, perhaps this is.
While I wish these were available as core products, it makes sense for Grand Seiko to continue these historical capsules ever so often as smaller product runs. Interestingly, this re-creation in steel is less expensive than the non-limited SLGW003 in titanium. It’s a move that aligns with the up-charge associated with titanium, but given that brands are often keen to throw pricing structures out the window when it comes to limited editions, it’s a welcome sight.
The Basics
Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: SLGW004, SLGW005
Diameter: 38.8mm
Thickness: 10.4mm
Case Material: 18k yellow-gold (SLGW004), stainless steel (SLGW005)
Dial Color: Light cream (SLGW004), eggshell white (SLGW005)
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Strap/Bracelet: Crocodile
The Movement
Caliber: 9SA4
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Diameter: 31mm
Thickness: 4.15mm
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 36,000 vph
Jewels: 47
Chronometer Certified: No; +5 to -3 seconds per day
Additional Details: 4,800 A/m magnetic resistance
Pricing & Availability
Price: $9,700 (titanium), $30,000 (yellow-gold)
Availability: November 2024
Limited Edition: Yes, 1200 pieces (titanium), 200 pieces (yellow-gold).
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
