Introducing: Cartier Releases The Tressage, A Panthére “Bangle” and A New Lineup Of Diamond-Set Panthére de Cartier Watches
What We Know
Cartier just introduced a whole new roster of jewelry watches for Watches and Wonders 2025. From the sculptural Tressage collection to a bold high-jewelry Panthère bangle and newly gem-set versions of the iconic Panthère de Cartier, the releases reflect a dual focus: a commercial backbone still rooted in its signature icons, and a continued push toward sculptural design, complex gem-setting, and inventive case construction.
Cartier’s new Tressage (French for braid) is an interesting mix of volume and texture, the watches feature an elongated rectangular case (56.2 x 25.7 mm, 11.5 mm thick), wrapped by two asymmetrical twists. The collection includes four configurations: a minimalist yellow gold model with a black lacquer dial and shiny black strap; a full pavé white gold version with 916 diamonds (12.2 ct) and a navy strap; a mixed gold version with 466 diamonds (6.3 ct); and a white gold model combining 570 diamonds (5.7 ct) and 330 sapphires (5.9 ct) for a richer chromatic effect. Each watch runs on a quartz movement, is water-resistant to 30 meters, and comes with both shiny and soft calfskin straps that echo the watch’s textural contrasts.
The Panthère high-jewelry watch stands out as the most sculptural and technically intricate piece in Cartier’s new lineup—a hybrid bangle-watch designed in a Toi & Moi format, where a panther figure faces a gem-set time display. Offered in two versions, the white gold model is fully snow-set with 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds (11.9 ct) and features a panther with emerald eyes, an onyx nose, and fur-set onyx spots—a technique that mimics the texture of real fur by folding metal around each stone. The yellow gold version takes a more graphic approach with black lacquer spots, tsavorite eyes, and a dial accented by 23 diamonds (0.78 ct), including a single diamond at 12 o’clock. Both feature quartz movements, are water-resistant to 30 meters, and come in three wrist sizes: 150, 160, and 170 mm.
The Panthère de Cartier, which stands as the de facto lynchpin of Cartier’s women’s watch offerings, is instantly recognizable for its supple brick-link bracelet and minimalist square case—elements that have made it as much a piece of jewelry as a timekeeping instrument. In its latest iteration, Cartier remixes the watch with an abstract blend of animal prints—somewhere between zebra and tiger—achieved through hand-applied lacquer and intricate gem-setting. The result is a richly textured, almost immaterial surface. The semi-pavé Panthère de Cartier models offer something a touch more wearable and versatile. Offered in yellow or rose gold, they come in three case sizes—25 x 20 mm, 30.3 x 22 mm, and 36.5 x 26.7 mm—with each variation featuring a silvered dial, blued steel sword hands, and Cartier’s signature brick-link bracelet. Diamond setting is focused on the bezel and outer bracelet links, with total carat weights ranging from 1.07 to 3.49 ct, depending on the size. All are fit with a quartz movement.
What We Think
It’s a new Watches and Wonders show, with a new round of watch launches, and guess what everyone is still into at Cartier – the Panthére. Not that trendiness should diminish the standing of any solid core-catalog product. SKUs become “hero” products for a reason. Achieving ubiquity is arguably the pinnacle of success in product design. Can you really blame Cartier for remixing a very successful recipe. What’s equally unsurprising is that I remain bullish on diamonds. Which means any review written before seeing the watches in person is bound to sound more critical. But once I go hands-on, I’m unabashedly bamboozled by the sparkle.
Even as Cartier’s core collections anchor its success, the brand remains restless and imaginative in their jewelry-watches. Cue these puffy little gem-set Tressage delights. Reminiscent of unicorn horns or conical shells. They also remind me of marshmallow Flumps (for the Brits) or Pull ‘N’ Peel Twizzlers (for the Americans). The overall vibe of these is very 1980s soap opera, think Dynasty or Dallas. I mean this as a compliment. The ’80s was a creative period in fashion and jewelry, it was exuberance and excess (if not a little nouveau riche). Cartier does a very good job at straddling the borderland between the old classics new takes. To my eye these watches look vintage-inspired but also refreshingly sculptural and modern.
Jewelry watches exist for a very small segment of the watch-buying population, but we can still admire them for the fun and spectacle. Having said that, the Panthère has transcended its horological function to become a design object in its own right. Its success lies in Cartier’s mastery of form, proportion, and branding. While it may not satisfy purists seeking mechanical complexity, it represents a different kind of watchmaking—one where visual language and cultural resonance carry more weight than movement architecture.
Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – you can follow all of the show’s new releases right here.
The Basics
Brand: Cartier
Models: Tressage Watch – Yellow Gold; Tressage Watch – White Gold, Full Diamond; Tressage Watch – Yellow & White Gold; Tressage Watch – White Gold with Sapphires; Panthère Jewellery Watch – White Gold; Panthère Jewellery Watch – Yellow Gold; Panthère de Cartier – Full Set Rose Gold; Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Rose Gold (Small); Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Rose Gold (Medium); Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Yellow Gold (Medium); Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Yellow Gold (Large).
The Movement
Caliber: Quartz movement
Functions: hours and minutes
Pricing & Availability
Price: Tressage Watch – Yellow Gold $40,000 ; Tressage Watch – White Gold, Full Diamond $122,000 ; Tressage Watch – Yellow & White Gold $75,500 ; Tressage Watch – White Gold with Sapphires $134,000 ; Panthère Jewellery Watch – White Gold POR; Panthère Jewellery Watch – Yellow Gold $68,000; Panthère de Cartier – Full Set Rose Gold POR; Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Rose Gold (Mini) $35,100; Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Rose Gold (Small) $44,600; Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Yellow Gold (Small) $44,600; Panthère de Cartier – Semi-Pavé Yellow Gold (Medium) $54,000.For more, click here.
Hodinkee
