Introducing: Bulgari’s New Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Sets New Record As World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch
What We Know
Get your “this all seems like a broken record” comments ready, Bulgari has captured yet another ultra-thin watchmaking crown. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is now officially the thinnest tourbillon ever produced, measuring just 1.85mm in thickness. Well beyond the definition of a dynasty, today’s tourb marks Bulgari’s 10th world record in the ultra-thin arena.
For lucky number ten, Bulgari returns to a record it has already set twice by my count. In 2014, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Wind held the record at 5.0mm. Then in 2018, Bulgari beat its own record and added two more with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic at 3.95mm. Just last year at Watches and Wonders, Piaget grabbed this trophy with the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon at 2.0mm. If we’ve learned anything over the past decade-plus of ultra-thin watchmaking, it’s “if you come at the king, you best not miss.” Bulgari is the king, and Piaget learned this lesson today.
Aesthetically, the Ultra Tourbillon is in the same lineage as 2024’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC and 2022’s Ultra, while adding in some hints of skeletonization because, why not? The flying tourbillon cage and the “dial” (or whatever we are calling the host of our hour and minute hands) are notably skeletonized, differentiating the Ultra Tourbillon at a glance. Just in case someone else has a “regular” Ultra on at your next party.
The caliber BVL 900 appears to share at least some of the construction of the caliber BVL 180 from the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC of 2024, the world’s thinnest production watch, with some clear differences. It’s not as simple as throwing a tourbillon into the mix, so don’t be fooled by the top half of the movement mirroring that of the Ultra COSC. The entire bottom portion has been reworked, and we are sure to hear all about it from Bulgari soon. Technically, the tourbillon caliber is manually wound, beats at 4 Hz, and offers 50 hours of power reserve.
As you might expect, this sort of watch doesn’t come cheap, and the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon can be yours for $678,000.
What We Think
For Bulgari’s first-ever appearance at Watches and Wonders, this is quite the release. Although, at this point, the brand holds so many world records in ultra-thin watchmaking that it’s, one, hard to keep track and, two, bordering on expected. If we really sat down to think about it, it was only a matter of time after Piaget’s achievement last year that Bulgari would punch back. The same can be said for the world’s thinnest watch, a crown stolen by Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing prototype at Geneva Watch Days last August. We’ll have to stay tuned for the next chapter on that title.
This all begs the question: Who keeps the books on ultra-thin watchmaking? Maybe Guinness World Records is involved or some central body of watch records in Switzerland. Whatever the case may be, some watchmakers are clearly obsessed with these trophies. No matter if you find it important or impressive from a consumer standpoint, the constant flexing of infinitesimal horological innovation is entertaining to follow.
From everything I have heard via collectors and enthusiasts, the Octo Finissimo Ultra series is more wearable than you might think. So, I’ll tip my cap to Bulgari for putting some effort towards creating a usable watch while chasing records. This is not always the case. If I’m picking nits with the previous Ultras, I found the QR code and Datamatrix detailing on the ten o’clock barrel to be a touch gimmicky. I’m glad to see Bulgari move away from this data-driven treatment in the Ultra Tourbillon.
Speaking of numbers, we should all be able to appreciate the insanity of the additional 0.15mm Bulgari needed to fit a flying tourbillon into the Ultra — that’s roughly two human hairs.
Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – you can follow all of the show’s new releases right here.
The Basics
Brand: Bulgari
Model: Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 1.85mm
Case Material: Titanium
Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: BVL 900
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Hand-winding
Frequency: 4 Hz
Pricing & Availability
Price: $678,000
Limited Edition: Yes, 20 pieces
For more, visit Bulgari.
Hodinkee
