Introducing: Breitling Unveils Its First Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Movement – In Not One, But Three Models
What We Know
Breitling has just introduced its first perpetual calendar chronograph movement in three of its most popular models: the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. All are powered by the new caliber B19, a perpetual calendar movement that is exclusive to Breitling. It’s an impressive technical step forward for the brand and one that represents 15 years of progress for its manufacture movements.
From top left: Premier B19 Datora 42; Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual; Super Chronomater B19 44 Perpetual, all 140th anniversary limited edition releases.
The caliber B19 is Breitling’s first perpetual calendar chronograph movement, building on its manufacture movements that began in 2009 with the caliber 01. Since then, Breitling has introduced a GMT, split-seconds, and other calibers to power its collection. The caliber B19 is an exclusive perpetual calendar movement with a full calendar and moon phase that offers an impressive 96-hour power reserve while ticking at 4 Hz. It’s also COSC-certified, and the chronograph employs a column-wheel, vertical clutch mechanism, generally preferred because it allows precise control of the chronograph’s stop, start, and reset. The 22K gold automatic winding rotor features an engraving of Breitling’s historic manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
To mark its 140th anniversary, Breitling is introducing the caliber B19 in three limited edition models: the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. Besides the shared movement, all three watches feature an 18K red gold case (typically 5N gold), are limited to 140 pieces, and have an MSRP of $59,000. On all three limited editions, the B19 is visible through a sapphire caseback.
The Premier B19 Datora 42 measures 42 x 15.6mm (50mm lug-to-lug), with its red gold case. Since all three limited editions share a common movement, they have a similar dial layout: the three o’clock subdial displays both the day of the month and a minute counter for the chronograph (inner track); the six o’clock subdial displays the month and also has a leap-year indicator (red hand); the nine o’clock subdial shows the day of the week and has a running seconds hand. Finally, a moonphase sits at 12 o’clock. Keeping with its mid-century inspiration, the Premier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has a stylized man on the moon. The dial is black, and features applied Arabic numerals, with concentric sailing on the black subdials. The outer gold seconds track is brushed. It’s delivered on a black alligator strap with a folding gold clasp.
The Navitimer measures 43 x 15.6mm (49mm lug-to-lug) – all measurements within 1mm of the Premier. The dial layout is similar to that on the Premier, but it has a red gold dial and indices to match the case. It also has the Navitimer’s classic slide rule bezel, and the moon phase is a more realistic interpretation of the moon, perhaps a nod towards the Navitimer’s origins as a scientific tool.
Finally, the Super Chronomat B199 44 Perpetual Calendar, with its red gold case measuring 44 x 15.3mm (53.5mm lug-to-lug). In a world of quartz, Breitling introduced the Chronomat in 1983, an automatic watch designed for Italy’s Frecce Tricolori aerobatics team. It’s got those instantly recognizable rider tabs on the bezel in 15-minute increments. When I saw Breitling’s traveling exhibit of vintage watches a couple of months ago, the brand’s head of heritage, Gianfranco Gentile, told me the Chronomat was everything when he was growing up in Italy.
This simple remark made me reconsider the Chronomat. It’s a child of the ’80s in all the best and worst ways – a bit in-your-face, but its design is immediately recognizable to many, defined by those rider tabs and its Rouleaux bracelet. Breitling is delivering the Chronomat Perpetual Chrono on a rubber strap inspired by that roller bracelet.
finally, each anniversary limited edition comes in a suede-lined wooden watch box along with some other goodies like a storage drawer, travel pouch, and a deluxe edition of the book Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories (Rizzoli, 2024) personalized with the owner’s anniversary piece on the cover.
What We Think
The caliber B19 is an impressive technical step forward for Breitling, and it seems reasonable for them to release it in three completely different packages. The Premier is pure mid-century, like a big modern Universal Geneve Tri-Compax (but make it a perpetual calendar). Meanwhile, the Super Chronomat feels modern and cutting edge, accentuated by its skeletonized dial. And, of course, you have to put it in your icon, the Navitimer. The execution of each is different and thoughtful in a way that feels true to the purpose of each model line. All of the watches are big but not overbearing, which I’m pretty sure is what customers want from a Breitling Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.
Meanwhile, there’s not a ton of competition in the perpetual calendar chronograph from brands not named “Patek.” IWC has done perpetual calendar chronographs before at a similar price point, and Habring manages to make a steel perpetual calendar chrono for about $25,000 (hell, the Habrings will make you a perpetual rattrapante for under $30,000).
I’d love to see Breitling do a perpetual calendar chrono in stainless steel, and perhaps that’s in store after the 140th-anniversary celebration is over.
And yes, when I saw the Premier limited edition, I couldn’t help but think of the Tri-Compax and Breitling’s recent acquisition of the brand. As CEO George Kern told us earlier this year, any product announcements from a revived UG are still some way off. But if a release like the Premier is laying the foundation for a more elegant release from Universal Geneve (it’s gotta be smaller and a good bit less than 15mm thick, to be sure), I wouldn’t be mad.
But for now, good on Breitling for continuing to build out its impressive manufacturing capabilities.
The Basics
Brand: Breitling
Model: Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary
Reference Number: RB19401A1B1P1
Diameter: 42mm (50mm lug-to-lug)
Thickness: 15.6mm
Case Material: 18K red gold
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Applied Arabic numerals
Lume: Super-LumiNova on hour and minute hands
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with 18K gold folding buckle
Brand: Breitling
Model: Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Reference Number: RB19101A1H1P1
Diameter: 43mm (49mm lug-to-lug)
Thickness: 15.62mm
Case Material: 18K red gold
Dial: 18K red gold dial, indices, and hands
Lume: Super-LumiNova on hour and minute hands
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with 18K gold folding buckle
Brand: Breitling
Model: Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Reference Number: RB19301A1G1S1
Diameter: 44mm (53.5mm lug-to-lug)
Thickness: 15.35mm
Case Material: 18K red gold
Dial Color: Grey skeletonized dial with black sapphire chronograph counters
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Rouleaux-bracelet inspired rubber strap with 18K gold folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: Breitling Caliber B19
Functions: Perpetual calendar chronograph
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 8.53mm
Power Reserve: 96 hours
Winding: Automatic (22K red gold winding rotor)
Frequency: 4 Hz
Components: 374
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified
Additional Details: Column wheel, vertical clutch chronograph
Pricing & Availability
Price: $59,000 (all three models)
Limited Edition: Yes, each is limited to 140 pieces
For more, check out the 140th anniversary watches on Breitling’s site.
Hodinkee
