Introducing: Audemars Piguet Takes A Very Diplomatic Approach With Diamonds For The Girls And The Boys In 34, And 39mm (Live Pics)
What We Know
This week Audemars Piguet unveiled its new fully pavé set Jumbo ultra-thin in white gold. It also released a yellow sapphire on yellow gold version but I didn’t get a chance to peep that (still waiting to peep the rainbow set too, which at this point is likely never happening – sigh).
AP then did a very welcome and very democratic thing by releasing two additional Haute Joaillerie timepieces in 34mm and 37mm both in pink or white gold, covered with various-sized brilliant-cut diamonds (this is called snowdrop setting in gem-speak).
The Jumbo is crafted in 18k white gold and decorated with 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and comes equipped with the caliber 7121.
The 34mm models also represent the first fully gem-set timepieces available in this diameter: The total jewel count of the watch pictured below stands at 2,255 brilliant-cut diamonds (~6.6k). That’s a lot of snowdrop set diamonds. Which means the watch is basically glowing in broad daylight. It comes equipped with the caliber 5809.
What We Think
A gem-set release from Le Brassus always feels like a special occasion. One of those events that has about zero relevance to my actual reality but is still spiritually important. Like a royal wedding, or, if we were living back in the 1900s, a high society debutante ball. Regal and shiny and fun to look at. A little beacon of hope for me to latch myself onto.
Naturally, I tried both on and, naturally, my reaction was somewhere along the lines of “please don’t make me take this off my wrist.” I have a new identity and it’s all tied up in this watch, like somebody who got upgraded to Business Class on a fluke and was never able to make the right turn back to coach ever again. I was massively affected.
Ok, so I know I said I hate rose gold, more than once. But I am full of contradictions. Plus what’s not to love about a watch covered in diamonds? You can barely see the metal anyway. And while I’m not really a pavé girl, I like pavé when done right. Or rhinestones (the poor man’s pavé – don’t hate) or anything that is covered in any shaped crystal or diamond. Now I can add snow-drop setting to my long list of jewel-incrusted obsessions along with Alaïa flats and tooth gems and Judith Lieber cell phone-shaped bags.
Juicy diamond setting aside, let’s crash back down to real analytics: My biggest takeaway from the press preview here in NYC a few weeks ago was just how well AP is catering to the smaller wrist crowd. I am careful not to say these new novelties are women-focused, but a 34mm white ceramic, a 38mm Code, and now a 34mm pavé, sounds like they have been doing their market research
I would wear the 34mm watch if I were Hayley Bieber, Dolly Parton or Liberace (RIP) or Lil Uzi Vert. The gamut is wide.
The Basics
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak
Reference Number:77452OR.ZZ.1365OR.01; 16202BC.ZZ.1241BC.01
Diameter: 34, and 39mm
Thickness: 9.2 mm; 8.1 mm
Case Material: White gold and Pink Gold
Indexes: Diamond
Lume: Yes
Strap/Bracelet: folding clasp bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: 5809 + 7121
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds; hours and minutes and date
Diameter: 23.9 mm; 29.6 mm
Thickness: 4mm; 3.19 mm
Power Reserve: 50 hours; 55 hours
Winding: self-winding; self-winding
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour); 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Jewels: 28; 33
Pricing & Availability
Price: Pink gold 34mm $198,000; White gold “Jumbo” 39mm $175,000
Limited Edition: Yes
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
