Hands-On: Three Grand Seikos Only Available In Japan – And One You Can Only Get Six Hours From Tokyo
If there’s one thing I do before any work trip, it’s over-research. I’m always worrying about travel logistics. But on my recent trip to Japan, there was one extra bit of research I found myself digging into – what (if any) watch should I buy? For any Grand Seiko fan, there’s a bit of extra pressure with a trip to Japan as there are several watches you can only buy (at least at retail) on Japanese soil. After a bit of negotiation and some help from the kind team at Grand Seiko and their flagship Wako store, I get to show you three of those releases. But be warned, one is already sold out.
For a little context, the Wako store in Ginza is one of the most iconic buildings in Japan, capped by a Seiko clock tower. Wako was founded by Kintarō Hattori in 1881 as a watch and jewelry shop called K. Hattori, which eventually became Seiko Group Corporation, sitting on what is now the most expensive real estate in all of Japan. As it stands now, this is the third iteration of the Wako store, built in 1932, and with a beautiful Art Deco-influenced Neoclassical facade that somehow survived the firebombing of Tokyo during World War II.
In addition to being the unfortunate target of Godzilla’s ire from the original 1954 movie to the recent film Godzilla Minus One, the building houses a department store selling everything from handbags and jewelry to some of the rarest watches from the Seiko brands. With the long history of Wako and the Seiko brands, it makes sense that it would also be a perfect location to sell a few exclusive limited editions. Grand Seiko has a long tradition of “Wako exclusive” models, so that’s where we’ll start.
The ‘Wako’ Edition SBGH241
My first in-person exposure to any of the Wako limited edition releases was a display at the iconic department store itself. On the second floor, surrounding a column not far from the stairs, is a display of some of the most important moments in Grand Seiko’s history, as well as the watches that you could only get at Wako over the years.
One common theme with many of the Wako editions is the inclusion of very heavily stylistic Breguet numerals and a variety of dial treatments. This creates an aesthetic that basically doesn’t exist for any other options in their lineup. For some, the placement of “Seiko” at the top of the dial further underscores that the Wako pieces use a design language outside the norm for the brand.
The SBGH241 that I was able to go “hands-on” with came out in 2018 as a high-beat automatic release in the same case design as the SBGR251 and 253 – 37mm by 13.3mm thick – housing the 9S85 movement. This creamy sunburst dial has hash marks on the minute track, large polished markers at the five-minute intervals, and the six, nine, and 12 “Breguet” numeral layout that makes it stand out. It also has the date at 3:00 PM, which, not to repeat a trope, it could do without.
Despite having such a unique dial, the watch checks a lot of the other boxes that you’d want from a Grand Seiko. A display caseback is a nice touch, even if the movement is a bit on the older side for a brand that innovates rapidly. The case has a solid amount of Zaratsu polish as well, something well worth the relatively affordable price – around 800,000 yen if memory serves. With the subtracted VAT for foreigners, you could end up picking one up in Japan for around $5,000-$5,500, or so.
This is a limited release but not a numbered edition. It’s also getting a bit long in the tooth, so it’s possible that a new replacement could come sometime soon. Also, you should keep in mind that traveling to Japan itself can cost a lot; it’s not exactly a short trip for those of us based in the U.S. (especially the East Coast). If your budget is constrained or you’re not a sentimental type looking to get the full experience of buying the watch at Wako, you can find these on the secondary market for around $4,500. Either way, you’ll have a Grand Seiko that looks a lot different than almost any other you’ll see at your next meetup.
The SBGH357 ‘Autumn Twilight’ Wako Exclusive
Another Wako exclusive that caught my eye was this new SBGH357 with a pinkish-orange dial. When I toured the Wako store, I immediately gravitated toward this watch, as the pink hue reminded me a bit of the now-famous Shunbun, except a bit more bold. Unfortunately, the watch is limited to 85 pieces, and by the time I saw it, it had already sold out.
Unlike the more natural-looking Shunbun dial, the SBGH357 has a linen texture. In Grand Seiko’s pictures, it comes off much more orange, which makes sense for the theme of “Autumn Twilight,” as seen from the Wako boutique in Ginza. But to me, this felt very distinctly pink. Rolex has notably used the linen texture on their dials in the past, but it’s still so uncommon that the interesting effect alone won some points in my book.
There’s a display caseback showing the 9S85 movement, like seen in the other Wako release I just showed you, but now housed in a larger 40mm case. While I don’t think this has the same potential for icon status as other Grand Seikos, the fact that such an interesting dial flew under the radar means it was well worth the time to check out. I’m pretty sure there will be a number of people who are upset they didn’t hear about it sooner. Reservations for the watch started the day before I arrived in Japan, on September 6th, and by September 13th, they were all spoken for.
The SBGH283 Studio Shizukuishi Exclusive
If you’re sore about missing out on the last watch, I have good news and bad news. The good news is the SBGH283 is a special edition that’s still available if you want one. The bad news is that it’s not as easy as simply going to Tokyo. To get this watch, you’ll have to either make the six-hour drive or two-and-a-half hour train ride to Morioka station in Iwate Prefecture and then take around a 20-30 minute cab ride to Studio Shizukuishi, Grand Seiko’s home for mechanical watchmaking. If you do so on Thursdays or Fridays, you’ll have a chance to tour the studio (though you will have to book all of this in advance) and, if you like, pick up a watch only sold there.
Like both previous watches, this one features the 9S85 high-beat automatic movement with a three o’clock date. It is housed in a 40mm by 13.3mm stainless steel case, so it is a bit more balanced than the first Wako piece. But the star, as is often the case with Grand Seiko, is the dial.
The dial on the SBGH283 is notoriously hard to capture. In some light, it looks pitch black, but as you start to play with angles and highlights, you start to see a pattern emerge. In fact, the dial is a deep, deep forest green, meant to evoke the forests surrounding the studio and play a significant part in the brand’s nature-inspired identity. It also evokes a bit of the wood paneling inside and outside the studio.
Aside from the dial, the watch features a gold-toned “Shizukuishi Limited” rotor. It’s a neat addition, but frankly, it’s not enough to sway me one way or another. Really, it all comes down to the dial and how sentimental you feel about Shizukuishi. At the time, I had my eye set on another Grand Seiko that I hoped to pick up in Japan – the SLGW003.
That watch isn’t limited to Japan, so after a bit of hemming and hawing, I decided to wait until I was stateside to pick something up. But now, looking back at the photos, I kind of regret it. For ¥792,000, the Shizukuishi model really is certainly attractive, and I was incredibly impressed by my time with Grand Seiko in Japan. It certainly would have made a nice token to remember the trip, but unless I want to buy one on the secondary market (and they do pop up), I’ll just have to make the trip back in the future.
Hodinkee