Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 – Now In Titanium
Today, in 2024, there is no shortage of GMT options. But the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection continues to deliver well-executed, easy-wearing travel watches at an accessible price point. The newest Zulu Time 39 in titanium is no exception, hitting all of these attributes in a way that continues to make the broader Longines Spirit collection a standout.
Last year, Longines introduced the shrunk-down Zulu Time 39 in stainless steel, following the larger 42mm Zulu Time. GMT James did his hands-on review, calling it the “complete travel package in a handsome design.”
The latest Zulu Time 39 has a grade-5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.2mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug). It’s nice to see Longines using grade-5 titanium, even at a more accessible price. The case is mostly brushed, with polished bevels. It’s delivered on a titanium bracelet. The dark grey anthracite dial features applied Arabic numerals with gilt surrounds and Super-LumiNova. The red tip of the GMT hand and printed “Zulu Time” in red give it a bit of color. The five stars still shine at six o’clock. Complain about it in the comments if you wish, but please, consider mercy for that poor horse!
The date window sits at six o’clock. Unlike last year’s stainless-steel version, it uses gilt-colored print to match the dial – a subtle, but appreciated update.
The bi-directional ceramic bezel insert is black, but is half polished and half micro-blasted. This makes it appear as two different colors, with the appearance of each half changing depending on the light and angle. It’s a cool effect I didn’t appreciate in the initial renders of the Zulu Time. The white numerals feel a bit mismatched against the dial’s gilt accents, leaving the watch caught between its heritage inspiration and modern execution.
The origins of the Longines “Zulu Time” lie in this rare 1920s square watch with a second hour hand to convert “Zulu” (Greenwich Mean Time) time to local time. This white-gold example sold at Antiquorum in 2010. While the modern Spirit Zulu Time looks nothing like this rectangular Longines, it’s a fascinating piece of the brand’s history.
I typically prefer modern design cues on titanium watches, but the titanium Zulu Time 39 made me reconsider this. See, sized to my wrist, the Longines Zulu Time 39 titanium weighs 96 grams – interestingly, the exact same as a vintage Rolex 1016 sized to the same wrist. The light feel of titanium almost evokes those vintage stainless-steel watches that can disappear on wrist. Modern stainless-steel watches are generally too heavy to match this easy-wearing vintage vibe.
Hand-wringing over the palette choices of the titanium Zulu Time aside – just as the stainless steel now comes in a range of options, I’d imagine the future holds the same for titanium.
The titanium bracelet is nicely made and has both brushed and polished surfaces. It lacks any tool-free micro-adjust, only including the more traditional five-position micro-adjust in its fold-over clasp. With brands large and small increasingly offering tool-free micro-adjust, Longines could update this. The bracelet does include Longines’ easy quick-release system so the bracelet can be removed without a tool. It also tapers nicely from 21mm lugs to 16mm at the clasp. The male end links on the bracelet also mean the lug-to-lug is effectively larger, but it still draped just fine around my 6.3 in. wrist.
Like the rest of the Spirit Zulu Time collection, this version uses Longines’ L844.4 automatic caliber. It’s an ETA-based movement that’s been improved and modified for Longines’ use and has hacking, hand-winding, a quick-set date, and a local-jumping GMT. It also has a silicon balance spring and is COSC-certified. It’s everything you’d expect from a modern Swiss mechanical movement. Longines was wise to use a closed caseback, adorned with a variety of engravings.
After a certain Longines Zulu Time limited edition, it’s perhaps no surprise that we now have a general production titanium GMT in 39mm. But, its execution and consideration of details makes it a worthy addition to the Spirit collection. The case proportions are balanced and wearable. I don’t always prefer titanium watches to stainless steel, but I do for the Zulu Time – there’s the possibility that a 39 x 13.5mm watch could feel tall or at least unbalanced, but lightweight titanium helps to alleviate this. While the bezel is all black, the varying finishes provide a subtle contrast – much more subtle than the new grey-black Rolex GMT, for example. I love this idea of playing with finishes instead of colors to create the appearance of a two-tone GMT bezel.
On my 6.3 in. wrist.
The Longines Zulu Time in titanium joins a crowded and competitive GMT field, thanks to the proliferation of affordable “flyer” GMT calibers. That said, it hits a sweet spot. Let’s just cut right to it: at $4,275 on bracelet, the titanium Zulu Time is more affordable than the (stainless steel) Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT on bracelet at $4,600. It’s a matter of preference – and I’ll reserve the right to change my mind – but I prefer the feel and look of the titanium Zulu Time 39. Neither of these watches is thick (the Black Bay 58 GMT is 12.8mm thick), but the titanium case is downright comfortable and more than makes up for the 0.7mm difference between the two.
There are subtle, but noticeable differences in all of the GMT options around this price point. None are perfect, but that’s also part of the fun. If you’re thinking about buying one, it’s important to consider which attributes are most important to you – between design, functionality, and price. Nowadays, there’s a GMT out there for pretty much everyone.
No matter your choice, the Longines titanium Time Zulu 39 is a solid, well-sized, Swiss made flyer (any other attributes?) GMT available for under $5,000. All this makes it a strong value statement, worthy of your consideration if you’re in the market for a GMT.
The Longines Zulu Time 39 has a grade 5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.5mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug). Delivered on a titanium bracelet tapering from 21mm to 16mm. Anthracite dial with Super-LumiNova in hands and numerals. Black ceramic bezel insert with contrasting polished and micr0-blasted surfaces. Longines automatic caliber L844.4 beats at 3.5 Hz with 72-hour power reserve and independently adjustable hour hand. MSRP: $4,275. For more, visit the product page on Longines.com.
Hodinkee
