Hands-On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G
If you’ve been watching Patek Philippe for the past few years, you’ve noticed the rise of a new style of Calatrava design inspired by the textured grips of a camera, a bolder case design reminiscent of the angular shapes of the vintage ref. 3448, with the subtle addition of a hobnail pattern that runs uninterrupted around the whole midcase. If you were the type of person to daily wear a Patek Philippe but wanted something more casual, more rustic, the ref. 5226G centers seconds Calatrava or ref. 5326G Annual Calendar Travel Time is just what the doctor ordered. Now the ref. 5328G joins with a robust eight-day power reserve to boot.
I get the appeal of the new ref. 6196P. Ben made the argument that it’s the best Calatrava in a generation, and I can’t argue. A lot of people would say that a Calatrava is a dressy thing, and in 99% of circumstances, you’re correct. But while I know the ref. 5328G is under Patek’s Calatrava line, I view it as something completely different: the most elegant and expensive field watch on the market.
Field watches don’t need massive waterproofness – they’re not meant for going under the water. So, while the ref. 5328G has the same 30m water resistance Patek has made standard across their product line since last year; I don’t think you’ll likely take a white gold Calatrava swimming. That said, you’re probably not using it as a field watch, either. But it’s the closest analogy I can find.
The shift to a blue dial with a black gradient rim, white gold applied numerals, and white luminescent coating likely makes it more versatile than the anthracite dials and yellow-toned lume. The dial is also perfectly balanced, a feat for a more complicated Calatrava. With the addition of a day, date, and that massive 8 (plus) day power reserve, it would make a perfect high-end field watch if you’re willing to make a $70,700 watch into one.
It’s hard to put my finger on why, but I love the architecture of the new manually wound 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J caliber. It has a classic look with the bridge layout and large half plate, plus Geneva stripes and solid chamfers for a brand-produced movement (not quite the same as the independents’ finishing, but still quite appealing).
The movement has touches of the kind of thoughtful additions you’d want from Patek: instantaneous jumping day and date, demarcation of the eight-day power reserve, plus an extra 9th day in red. Maybe the only downside of the movement is the fact that the day and date are set via stylus, and you’ll have to change the date at least five times a year.
By my understanding of the oral history of the development of this case design, Patek’s CEO, Thierry Stern, wanted these watches (including the predecessor models) to have a midcase with a continuous and uninterrupted hobnail or Clous de Paris pattern. To accomplish this, Patek has suspended the lugs against the band of the caseback, holding the sapphire caseback in place. We’re used to seeing welded or screwed lugs, but this is something different entirely. At 41mm by 10.52mm, it’s proportional enough to wear well, especially for the power reserve. The watch comes delivered on a navy blue calfskin strap with afabric pattern and an additional grained taupe strap with a gold patented triple-blade fold-over clasp.
Look, I get the argument is a little convoluted or emotional based on “vibes”; a $70,700 Calatrava versus a $600 Hamilton Khaki Field is a bit of a ridiculous comparison. But to someone (or multiple someones) out there in the market, it’s a comparison that might hold. If the ref. 6196P is the new “it” dressy Calatrava. Why can’t the 5328G be the daily-wearing companion? Or at least on a special occasion, once every week or so, it’s a watch you can count on to keep the time (and date) when you pick it up next.
For more information, visit Patek Philippe.
Hodinkee
