Editors’ Picks: The Watches We’d Wear To Our Best Friend’s Wedding
In many areas of the world, the long, sunny days of summer will soon be drawing to a close. But the wedding season is still in full bloom. And when the wedding involves someone close to us, it’s an event we wouldn’t miss for the world. Many of us feel a duty to honor them by showing up, dressing our best, and wishing them well as this new chapter of life begins. We can also remember the experience with the watch we choose to wear on the special day.
So, without further ado, here are the watches that members of the Hodinkee team would wear to their best friend’s wedding (and why).
Tony Traina: The AnOrdain Model 3
If I wore a Rolex or really anything more valuable than those KitchenAids that torment every wedding registry to a buddy’s nuptials, I’d get roasted like Tom Brady on Netflix. But jiu-jitsu instructors be damned, I’m still going to wear a watch to the wedding.
To me, the best case for my choice of watch on this most sacred of days is that no one will notice. No one will ask. The day’s not about me or my watch but the happy couple. As the “watch guy,” of course, someone will ask at some point, even if it takes a few of those specialty cocktails that are delightfully named after the newly betrothed.
And when that moment comes, I want to be able to respond with something more than a sheepish “Rolex” or “Cartier” or pick your other big brand. I want to be able to tell a quick story about the watches and the people, why I have made a so-called profession out of them, and maybe, just maybe, plant a seed for someone else that watches are more than just some flashy, overpriced piece of wrist jewelry.
A few smaller brands that fit this task come to mind, but AnOrdain is among the first. Over the past decade, the Scottish company has been built slowly and deliberately, with a focus on craftsmanship and supporting artisans, in particular its enamelers. “What I think is different and special about us is not just the enameling, but our approach to craft and to watchmaking,” Heath said to me recently. This is illustrated with AnOrdain’s most recent collaboration with Method Studio for its Model 3.
Method Studio is located in an old Forestry Commission timber yard in the middle of Scotland, where it makes wooden boxes in the old-fashioned way. AnOrdain took these boxes as inspiration to create one of its signature enamel dials with a beautiful wave pattern. I think it’s a story that’s pretty hard to roast.
Rich Fordon: The Oak & Oscar Olmsted 38
When you “work in watches” and attend a wedding, people will inevitably be curious about what you’re wearing. I have found myself in this situation often and have come to a realization: non-watch-crazed people don’t want to hear you talk about some niche vintage Rolex (a ref. 1016 gilt dial, for example) or anything too “luxury.” I would love to wear a Patek ref. 5004P to a wedding, but I don’t think anyone else would appreciate the move. The most interesting conversations come when the answer to “what’s on your wrist” is something that is A, relatively approachable, and B, from a brand most “normal” people have never heard of. The perfect watch to wear to my best friend’s wedding, an event that will spawn many of these conversations, is Oak & Oscar’s Olmsted.
Oak & Oscar’s design language may be slightly tool/field watch, but I have always found the simpler options versatile enough to wear with a suit. Let’s imagine my best friend is getting married in the summer. Outside, the Olmsted is more than appropriate.
The Olmsted’s story is very engaging. As opposed to ranting at someone about a vintage Rolex dial that was only produced for two years, I can introduce them to a Chicago-based brand (my hometown) run by a friend (Chase Fancher, the founder) that is all-in-all doing things the right way. Oak & Oscar’s brand story is a conversation I want to have with someone I might not see often, and the product is one I can recommend if they are looking for a nice watch today or in five years.
Vic Ottomanelli: The Tank Louis Cartier (Green)
My best friend and I often characterize ourselves by our favorite colors: red and green. Much like Nintendo’s iconic brotherly duo, Mario and Luigi, we are family. We are always there to support one another through the toughest times, and also, to celebrate the happiest times.
To commemorate what I hope will be one of those happiest times in her life, I would wear the Tank Louis Cartier in green with a gold case and green strap. I’d hope that at some point during the celebration, she’d be wearing the red version of this watch so that we can match. It’s my dream to one day purchase these watches for the two of us to honor our friendship, and I can’t think of a better opportunity to wear mine.
James Stacey: The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS Manual SBGW297
A wedding watch – even when you’re not getting married – is a fun thought exercise as the watch needs to be versatile enough for the myriad dress codes that might be selected for a modern wedding while also feeling special enough to mark the occasion (but not so special as to big-time your best friend). With those considerations at hand, my mind immediately went to Grand Seiko as the brand does “subtle, special, and not too flashy” about as good as any.
From their impressive and always-growing collection, I’m picking the Heritage Collection 44GS SBGW297. Though announced last year, I only recently got a chance to see this textured white dial model in person at Grand Seiko’s new boutique on Maddison Ave in NYC. At 36.5mm wide and 11.6mm thick, the SBGW297 has dress proportions (the smallest diameter of any 44GS model) while being made of steel. Its crisp white dial has a truly gorgeous radial patterning that forms a stage for the markers and hands. I couldn’t stop looking at it.
In keeping with the need for something special, this 44GS model is not only small and ever so pretty, but it’s also hand-wound with a GS Caliber 9S64 movement. That means a stated accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day, a rate of 4 Hz, and 72 hours of power reserve. If you’re going for a more special and dressy option, a hand-wound movement offers a more traditional and romantic experience. While I would likely opt for a leather strap, this Grand Seiko has that often elusive heirloom appeal and is a perfect pick for wedding season.
Mark Kauzlarich: The Tudor Black Bay 58
Ah, the watches we wish we could marry. I’ve thought about this a lot. Oh wait, no that was a different outing of Editors’ Picks.
When it comes to wearing a watch for a friend’s wedding, I think it all depends on the vibe, location, and dress code. But since I don’t have any billionaire friends (or billionaire wedding-appropriate watches), I think I can rule out anything too ridiculous, like a Patek 1518. In fact, I’m going to go back to the trusty Black Bay 58. This watch was my first “serious” watch purchase – the kind of purchase that gets your gut in knots over nervousness, but you know you’re going to love long-term. While I haven’t been married, I have a feeling that’s what your wedding day is like.
Regardless of the dress code, it’s also a watch that can go with anything. I know some people will balk at wearing any watch, let alone a sports watch, with a black tie, but to them, I say, “it’s the 21st century; get over it.” If Bond can wear a sub with a tux as easily as a polo shirt, I’m happy to rock this Tudor at my best friend’s wedding – or anywhere else.
Malaika Crawford: The Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Reine
It’s my best friend’s wedding, which means I would have to be mindful of not upscaling her in any way, shape, or form. I do not know what watch she’s wearing on her hypothetical big day, but my best-friend-in-the-background duties mean no yellow gold double wrap Serpenti for me.
I will be sticking to something jewelry-adjacent for this occasion. Scoff all you want, but I’m a traditionalist when it comes to formal occasions, which means absolutely no sports watches are allowed. And seeing as this is a hypothetical wedding, I’m going for gold and diamonds. The JLC 101 Reine is a watch masquerading as a tennis bracelet. It’s fully gem-set, but it manages to remain low-key. Wear her a little loose for full nonchalance. If anybody clocks the teeny tiny dial, it makes for a great conversation starter. On top of that, the 101 was worn by Queen Elizabeth for her coronation in 1953, which means even more easy conversation opportunities about Britishism (paired with my very British accent) with unknown wedding guests.
Although I am a keen observer of the small watch hype train, I don’t often choose small and dainty for my own wrist. But the 101 Reine is discreet in its watchy-ness. It’s opulent but refined, a genre of dressing that I wouldn’t mind subscribing to in my own hypothetical life. Let’s hope my bestie does me a solid and lets me look opulent and refined in my bridesmaid’s dress.
Jonathan McWhorter: The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/1R
For my best friend’s hypothetical wedding, I need a watch that can meet the moment. In this hypothetical scenario, my best pal would likely do one of two things: elope and have a secret ceremony (frankly, this is where I’m putting my betting money) or throw a huge bash with every detail considered and elevated to the nines. There’s no in-between. So, for this exercise to work, I need to base my wedding guest fantasy in the hypothetical second storyline.
Since we’re really going all out in this universe, I must pull from the best of the best and where else to look but Patek Philippe- specifically the Golden Ellipse 5738/1R. Though, if I really had my way beyond the superpower of picking any watch out of thin air, I do wish the case dimensions were just a touch smaller – but I digress. The black dial and rose gold bracelet would perfectly complement a tux, which I’m certain would be the dress code for this event. There’s not much else that needs to be said about a Patek Philippe dress watch: it does exactly what it needs to and doesn’t require extra commentary: understated, refined, elegant. However, the hand-assembled bracelet featured here on the 5738 is a little extra oomph that really makes a statement.
I have lusted after the Ellipse dress watch for years, and this latest iteration is peak Patek elegance, with that archive-echoing chain link bracelet sending the Wow-o-meter through the roof. It meets the moment: chic as hell, with a touch of flash to stand up to the occasion.
TanTan Wang: The Nomos Orion Neomatik New Black Ref. 396
A wedding is always the best excuse to break out that black-tie attire that’s been sitting in the closet collecting dust until the next time your friends get married, so for me, you gotta go with something that can work with the tux but also look great during the rehearsal dinner and obligatory wedding weekend activities. When the Nomos Orion “New Black” trio was released earlier this year, they seemed like perfect black-tie watches. I know there’s a camp of people who believe that “black tie” and “watch” do not belong in a sentence together, but we are on a watch site, so damn it, we are wearing watches.
I love the touch of gold on the Orion “New Black.” Nomos color palettes typically lean towards the cool side, so having that touch of warmth turns an otherwise very stoic watch into something more dynamic. It’s a well-executed and versatile design.
For me, I’d want a watch I wear with a tux to be on the smaller side of things, so I’d pick the 36.4mm model. Nomos released each of the three sizes with slightly different takes on the gold accents, and I think the 36mm version is the best implementation, with gold indices as well as gold printing of “Neomatik” on the dial. With the typical Nomos lug proportions and a lug-to-lug measurement of 45mm, I assume this will wear closer to a 38mm watch on my wrist. Thankfully, the 8.5mm thickness will not be an issue under a French-cuffed sleeve.
Most importantly, I’m there for my best friend’s wedding, not there to steal the show. The Nomos does so well in that regard, being a well-made and elegant watch that blends into the background when you need it to. That way, I’m not doing the watch person’s equivalent of wearing white to a wedding – did any of my colleagues pick an RM055 Bubba Watson?
Hodinkee
