Digi-Cool Watches From The Seventies Are Back With A Sleek Vengeance
For a seventies moment, it looked like we could stem the Japanese tide with groundbreaking all-American futurism. The Pulsar Time Computer was the world’s first digital watch and starred on The Tonight Show With Johnny Carson. With a “time screen” boasting a few seconds of glowing red LED digits at the push of a button, Johnny wasn’t impressed. Still, it was a huge hit that brought American electronics manufacturers into watchmaking, even supplying Omega with LED modules. Sadly, the revolutionary LED glow faded quickly, as did American watchmaking, but the seventies are back, and LEDs are glowing brighter than ever.
The GP Casquette 2.0 is Back With a Touch of Gold
The Girard-Perregaux Casquette epitomized LED chic, even if the ref. 9931 shocked brand-loyal buyers in 1976 as the Japanese quartz wave loomed. It looked like nothing from this planet: in matte, space-age Makrolon composite or steel, even gold-plated, it looked like an aerodynamic helmet. A casquette is, in fact, the tight-fitting cap cyclists use for race and practice, now mostly worn on the podium. But despite its wild sci-fi looks, it was a hit, with 8,200 produced over two years.
Fast-forward to 2021, when London’s George Bamford revived the cult classic with an organic swirl of forged carbon fiber composite for Only Watch. After this Pièce Unique tease, Girard-Perregaux launched the Ceramic Casquette 2.0 in 2022 in a period-perfect 42.4×33.6mm with a titanium case back. But this time, the wrist-worn spacecraft came on a fiercely innovative rubber-lined ceramic bracelet with a brand-new multifunctional Quartz movement. The dark version of the OG was followed in 2023 by a couple of limited versions by Saint Laurent’s creative director, strengthening the Sith vibe.
Last month, Girard-Perregaux dropped a brushed titanium Casquette for a final fling in the midst of a digital renaissance. Having tried it on, I can honestly say that I’m a big fan. With its new-tech LED screen, it is still not the most legible watch, but pushing the actuator is an event. It pushes all my own buttons, and wearing the Casquette is a time-traveling experience. For its final outing, Girard-Perregaux has retooled production for a sleek, full titanium version with the crisp glimmer of an 18K applied case logo and pusher.
The lightness of titanium is always welcome, and the hidden, inset rubber lining softening the bracelet is a genial move (other brands take note!) In an applaudable move, the GP3980 caliber made for the Casquette 2.0 has also been reverse-engineered, allowing it to be retro-fitted to a 1976 Casquette. Revealed last month for $4,960, the Casquette might already be close to sold out, but we’ll cross our fingers if you want a taste of old-school LED elegance with a touch of gold.
The Hamilton PSR, An American Pioneer With Swiss Sophistication
With Hamilton’s tool watch focus, I was pleasantly surprised to see a beefed-up version of the legendary Pulsar in 2020, the PSR. But unlike the limited-drop Casquette, it has been upgraded to a range mainstay. We covered its release back in ’20, and today, there are three versions of this chunky sports watch boasting a new-tech OLED display. It is a seventies Pulsar Time Computer that’s been to boot camp, and with a 100m depth rating and thick AR-treated sapphire, it’s a great everyday driver.
I would have loved to see the 13.3mm thick case slimmed down, and my retro wish was fulfilled when Hamilton dropped the PSR ’74 last month (shown above). I’ve been close to pulling the trigger on the 2020 design, but the funky armadillo-like single-link bracelet on the PSR ’74 wins the day, and I would go all-out with PVD gold.
The bangle-vibing ’74 is powered by the H-40e Quartz caliber, running a reflective LCD and emissive OLED display hybrid. The 31mm cushion case might seem narrow for some, but I’ve already eyed up a brown cashmere turtleneck from Todd Snyder to go with it. The retail price is $845.
The Bulova Computron
Hamilton was not the only USA-made LED sweetheart and not as wild as the wedge-tastic Bulova Computron. Reading Jack Forster’s 2019 story on its revival, I had it down as a limited, brave attempt to revive a glorious past. But I’ll be damned if it didn’t make it through the Pandemic, morphing into a sleeker dark version of itself in the process.
This says a lot about the imaginative taste of watch buyers, including Gen-Zs embracing the seventies and eighties, wearing fits Boomers wince at. The Computron is a dramatic 13.8mm thick striated wedge with a crisp display and the now-familiar side actuator. A repeat push will show you running seconds, the date, and even a second time zone. Just don’t let the display distract you while cruising the neighborhood in your restored AMC Gremlin.
In a surprising 2022 redesign, Bulova’s Computron enticed gamers with a black, Tron-like version designed in collaboration with gaming champ D-Cave. But my instant favorite is the flamboyant gold of the ref.97C110 with its slim 31 mm case and red LEDs. I’m a Star Wars fan (pre-CGI, baby), so the glimmering look of C3PO’s dress watch will do me nicely for $395.
Amida Digitrend, The GPHG-Nominated Mecha-Alternative
Let me explain the inclusion of the non-LED-displaying Digitrend. I wanted to include the driver-facing Casquette in my recent story on car-inspired watches, but letting go of the wheel to push an actuator button makes for worrying road safety. However, a recently revived Swiss alternative with a driver-centric digital display has just been released, the Amida Digitrend. It is not the ABC of legibility but offers a seventies vibe with an optical twist.
The Digitrend has three options, and I’d go for the Vader-like Black Edition. This is the second edition of its seventies revival, earning it a GPHG nomination this year. Powered by a Soprod P092 Swiss automatic movement, the Digitrend is a faithful recreation of the 1976 Amida with some awesome display tech. The dynamic shape was inspired by motor racing, and the driver-facing sapphire crystal has an optic patent from 1974 to unpack.
The slightly distorted vertical view of orange-on-black jumping hours and rotating minutes can be likened to a submarine periscope, as the discs are horizontally mounted on the movement. The time display is viewed through a 1974 patented prism, echoing the optics of a periscope.
The Amida Digitrend has been thoroughly modernized for everyday useability with a 50m/5ATM depth rating. It also boasts a 44-hour reserve and a sapphire case back, offering views of Geneva striping, sandblasting, and circular graining. The Digitrend is available for CHF3,250 on an anthracite Alcantara strap with a pop-orange calf lining, or a black DLC bracelet for a small upcharge.
Hodinkee
