Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Série Atelier Classic Auto ‘Sandstone’
At Geneva Watch Days last week, Laurent Ferrier quietly released a new watch in their “Classic” case shape. While understated – and as a part of their Série Atelier, limited to only 20 pieces – it left an impression on me as one of the strongest releases of the fair.
Understated isn’t a bad thing. That, alongside consistent quality and attention to detail, is why Laurent Ferrier drew so many fans in the first place. As Rich Fordon pointed out in his introduction, those who wanted a Laurent Ferrier got one and then many moved on. Being “understated” kind of fell out of vogue for many collectors. Well, this is the kind of year that Laurent Ferrier needed to get back in the spotlight, to steal Rich’s analogy. Alongside the release of the Classic Moon, I haven’t been this excited about Laurent Ferrier in a while.
Frankly, I am not quite sure why the Classic Auto “Sandstone” looks so much better in this configuration than their similarly copper/salmon-hued Classic Micro-Rotor with no date (and I much prefer a watch without a date). I even like the “hood intake” style date window better on the more classic dial than on the Sport Auto I reviewed last year. The balance of the crosshair sector dial plays well with the vintage-inspired feel of the dial. The dial has 18k white gold indices with Assegai spear hands, printed minute track, and a ball index at three o’clock where the other long indices are missing.
This is the sixth Série Atelier watch from Laurent Ferrier, but it retains the classic round and polished “pebble” case that I think people most closely associate with the brand. This means soft edges, a curved bezel, and soft lines on the lug. I do know that this is classic for the brand, and we’re not buying a vintage Patek, but I do sometimes wonder what these watches would look like with stronger lugs and a mix of brushing. Whatever it looked like, I guess it wouldn’t be Laurent Ferrier.
The case is made of stainless steel, which feels sporty and light. At 40mm wide, it’s modern size, and while it measures 11.94mm thick, it didn’t seem particularly chunky. Little details, like the rounded section of the lug tips viewed in profile, drawn from vintage watch design, show up now on watches like Xhevdet Rexhepi‘s Minute Inerte. As a whole, it makes a comfortable package.
The watch is powered by the LF270.01 movement found in the Sport Auto, with a Swiss lever escapement and platinum micro-rotor for powerful automatic winding. The movement is reserved but gorgeous. It features 139 manual finishing processes, including chamfering and beveling of interior and exterior angles, circular graining, Côtes de Genève, and chevrons and feathers on the rotor.
This is a place where personal tastes may vary. The Classic Micro-Rotor “Autumn” has no date and features a natural escapement for CHF 5,000 more than the new Classic Auto. The LF270.01 featured a lever escapement because it was the most shock-resistant option for the Sport Auto. However, the double direct impulse on the balance of natural escapement is something for which Laurent Ferrier should go down in history. Breguet had the idea to combine the frictionless works of the detent escapement with the self-starting ability of Thomas Mudge’s 1755 lever escapement. Where others – including George Daniels and Derek Pratt – found other solutions, they failed to fully implement Breguet’s ideas as Ferrier did. Therefore, you have a watch with less friction and more accuracy.
It has a single mainspring (giving 72 hours of power reserve) and single gear train (unlike the two used in Daniels’ Space Travelers) and, like Breguet’s model, the two escape wheels mesh, with the first driving the second. That might be deep in the weeds but it illustrates some of the importance of the natural escapement in Ferrier’s history. It’s also a difference certainly worth considering if that’s history you would rather have on the wrist or if the date is something more practical for daily use.
That question highlights my only other significant issues with the watch. First, at CHF 50,000 it feels priced slightly higher than I would expect for a steel case, even of this quality. A manually-wound Classic Origin costs CHF 33,000 with a Swiss lever escapement, no date, and a pretty compelling grade-5 titanium case. A steel Classic Micro-Rotor – as I mentioned before – is only CHF 5,000 more, with a bit more horological “oomph” behind it. The Sport Auto, with a full titanium case and bracelet, is CHF 48,000. Looking at the numbers, I’d have expected this watch to be closer to CHF 40,000.
This seems to be the most common feedback about Laurent Ferrier I hear from collectors right now – not that the brand isn’t making good watches, but that the prices sit just on the boundary of what people are willing to pay for them. In this instance, there’s a premium for limited release from the Série Atelier. It’s just a shame this watch wasn’t introduced as a part of the core collection at a more reasonable price. But for 20 people, I’m sure it will be worth it – and I hope that this is the start of Laurent Ferrier’s time back in the spotlight.
Laurent Ferrier Série Atelier Classic Auto “Sandstone,” ref. LCF046.AC.B2G1; 40mm diameter by 11.94mm thick stainless steel case, with 30m water resistance. “Sandstone” salmon lacquered dial, 18k white gold hands and indices; Hours, minutes, small seconds, date. LF270.01 movement running at 28,800vph with 72 hours of power reserve. Dark brown calf leather with tone-on-tone Alcantara lining. Limited to 20 pieces. Price: CHF 50,000.
Hodinkee