Yema Wristmaster Traveller Watch Debuts With The First French Manufacture Ultra-Thin Micro-Rotor Caliber
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Designed as a luxury sports watch that ticks all the boxes, the Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition combines a steel case with an integrated bracelet, a screw-down crown, 100 meters of water resistance, and an elegantly thin profile. The latter hints at the special caliber that powers the Wristmaster: The first ultra-thin micro-rotor French manufacture caliber, on display, of course, through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.
Founded in 1948 and run by a third-generation watchmaker family of Morteau, Yema proudly designs and assembles its watches in France. Employees average 30 years of service experience and have been trained in France’s most prestigious schools of horology. Over the years, Yema has specialized in luxury and high-precision mechanics made in partnership with the military, professional athletes, and scientists. The brand’s latest piece has been inspired by the Yema Wristmaster of the 1960s both in its name and aesthetics.
Yema’s CEO & Head of Design is Christopher Bôle, and he’s been surrounded by watches and a passion for watchmaking since his earliest childhood. He designed the new Wristmaster Traveller as a luxury sports watch with an ultra-sleek and elegant look, with the ultimate ambition to create an expression of French contemporary horology — a synthesis of French art and watchmaking craft.
His efforts resulted in the robust, yet elegant Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition. Presented in a 39mm-wide case in stainless steel, it combines an asymmetrical octagonal flange with a round bezel, with dozens of facets and surfaces decorated with alternating finishing techniques, namely larger sections that are brushed and beveled edges that are delicately polished.
The design is completed by the integrated steel bracelet that connects to the case seamlessly. The continuous pattern of vertical brushed surfaces and polished angles naturally extends all the way from the top of the bezel to the case and further into the integrated steel bracelet, creating the appearance of perfect integration. The case measures just 9.20mm-thick — down from 12mm on the original Traveller model — providing ample volume for the various surface treatments to be beautifully applied and easily appreciated, but keeping a low profile that greatly enhances wearing comfort in the long run. Lug-to-lug measurement is just 43.5mm, complementing the 39mm diameter in pursuit of a perfectly proportioned case.
The bezel is inspired by a Yema Sous-Marine model from the 1980s and is crafted from a single piece of stainless steel. Despite its monoblock execution, it displays three distinct finishes with the top and bottom surfaces decorated with an elegant vertical brushing with a fully polished transition in between, where the bezel’s horizontal and vertical surfaces meet.
The dial’s gently curved pattern and subtle grading from light to dark are revealed when viewed under bright light, creating a powerful yet refined aesthetic that complements the sheen of the bezel and case. The large, easy-to-read applied hour markers are matched with steel hands, and all are treated with a Super-LumiNova BGW9 Grade A luminescent coating. These, together with the deliberate absence of a date complication, are fundamental design elements that reinforce the luxurious minimalism and sporting elegance aspects of the Wristmaster Traveller. The dial is protected by a slightly raised sapphire crystal.
The slim profile of the Yema Wristmaster Traveller has been attained thanks in no small part to the ultra-thin in-house micro-rotor caliber. With its smart architecture, the Yema Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 (CMM.20) measures just 3.70mm-thick (thinner than two stacked U.S. nickels or two Euro coins), and yet provides 70 hours of power reserve. That reserve is replenished by a micro-rotor that sits virtually flush with the rest of the movement, shaving off several millimeters of thickness when compared with traditional, full-size self-winding systems.
Four talented French watchmakers with a shared experience totaling 120 years have taken up the challenge of creating Yema’s first manufacture caliber. Micro-rotor movements remain a rare and exotic sight, nevertheless appreciated by watch enthusiasts for their visual traits — the beautifully colored and finished plates and the overall architecture of the movement can be fully appreciated at all times, as there is no full-size rotor and its bridge covering it all up. Yema chose to exhibit its mastery in micro-engineering and passion for stylish aesthetics by perfectly executing this mechanism for the pleasure of watch aficionados and collectors. Oliver Mory, watchmaker-developer, says, “With this in-house manufacture micro-rotor, Yema opens a chapter into fine watchmaking, targeting watch connoisseurs. Right after, we’ll go more for a mainstream approach. In our vision, if we are able to produce the thinnest French automatic winding micro-rotors, we’ll be able to produce the finest central oscillating weight calibers. Oftentimes, the opposite is not true.”
Constructed from 190 micro-components individually crafted by Yema’s own engineers in its Morteau workshops, Yema’s micro-rotor caliber is 80% French-made and 20% Swiss-made, thanks to the Swiss regulating organ, i.e., balance wheel and hairspring. Adjusted to four positions and operating at a modern 4Hz frequency, Yema optimized its CMM.20 movement to offer -3/+7 second, near-chronometer-certified accuracy and combines that with a weekend-lasting power reserve that’s efficiently recharged with the Tungsten micro-rotor. Its decorations include satin-brushing and polished micro-blasting with three distinct color options applied using Atomic Layer Deposition (ALD). Yema offers a three-year international warranty.
During the last two years, Yema has made substantial investments aimed at insourcing a considerable part of its production, constantly improving the quality of the manufacturing processes, as well as developing a future range of French Manufacture calibers. This new chapter involves the in-house production of some key components, but Yema now also relies on new local key partners for a more responsible, higher-quality production. With the French-Swiss Jura Arc being increasingly integrated, Yema now leverages new watchmaking partners’ know-how, all of them located within a radius of 72 km around Yema’s Morteau workshops.
The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition watch is limited to 1,948 pieces in total, irrespective of the dial and movement colors, with a unique number engraved on the micro-rotor winding mass. Due to limited availability following production capacity in 2023 and to avoid frustration, Yema is making just one watch available per backer at a highly competitive pricing of €1,499, which is 50% off the future retail price of €2,998. European Union backers will be charged 20% EU VAT (€300) when selecting their shipping country (€1,799, including EU VAT). You can learn more on the brand’s Kickstarter page.
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