Pre-Owned Picks: A Pair of Horological Firsts From Audemars Piguet And Grand Seiko, Some Rolex Classics, And An Olympic Omega
Each week, we proudly showcase a meticulously curated collection of pre-owned timepieces available in the Hodinkee Shop. This week, our selection includes the first exhibition case back-equipped Royal Oak, the first high-beat GMT from Grand Seiko, some staples from the Rolex lineup, and a watch for an Olympics that never happened. This week all of our watches are above the $10,000 price tag and are eligible for a $1,000-off promotion (this week only), so take advantage and enjoy some of the best watches life has to offer.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jubilee Limited Edition Ref. 14802ST.OO.0944ST.01
The Royal Oak has undergone very few changes since its launch in 1972. Honestly, why tamper with perfection? The most significant alteration occurred with the introduction of the Jubilee edition in 1992, which featured a display caseback. This practice wasn’t very common in the early ’90s, but when you’re crafting a movement to Audemars Piguet standards, it becomes easier to showcase it to the world. On display is the caliber 2121, one of the thinnest automatic movements ever created. It was a collaborative effort among Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. As an added touch for the new display window model, a 21k gold rotor was included because 18k just isn’t special enough.
Initially, only 1,000 units were produced across all metals, with 700 made in steel and an estimated 400-500 in this particular blue dial configuration. The Jubilee edition was released at a time when the Royal Oak wasn’t selling rapidly, and rumors suggest that it took almost until 2000 for the last of them to be sold. This initial lack of interest sets the stage for future collectability, and that’s precisely what transpired. In recent years, examples of this watch have fetched well over six figures at auctions as collectors seek to own a piece of Audemars Piguet’s heritage.
Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 Special Ref. SBGJ010
When Grand Seiko applies its incredible level of finishing to precious metals, the result is truly special, as indicated on the dial of the SBGK010. This 39.5mm high-beat GMT timepiece was the first of its kind when it was introduced in 2014, marking Grand Seiko’s inaugural inclusion of a GMT complication in a high-beat movement. It was released as part of a trio of watches, all housed in white, rose, or yellow gold, and limited to a total of 200 pieces across the three variants. The reason behind the inclusion of the word “special” on the dial becomes evident quite quickly.
In addition to the Zaratsu-finished case, hands, and markers, you’ll notice that the dial is double-signed with Seiko—a practice that was commonplace before 2017, when Grand Seiko became an independent entity. The silver sunburst dial harmonizes perfectly with the rose gold case, creating a pleasing contrast with the internal GMT ring. The exhibition caseback provides a view of the 9S86 movement. This trio of watches, including the SBGJ010, were the first to feature this movement, further enhancing the historical significance of this timepiece. Watch collectors often value the history of a company or a specific complication, and now is an opportunity to own a part of that remarkable history.
Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126619
It’s challenging to find someone who isn’t familiar with the Rolex Submariner or who wouldn’t be interested in owning one. They are among the most coveted watches that look impressive on anyone’s wrist, no matter the setting. However, what if you desire to set yourself apart from the crowd? That’s where the “Smurf,” or Rolex’s affectionate nickname for it, comes in—the 126619. This Submariner features a blue bezel, which casual observers may perceive as a nice splash of color, but watch enthusiasts who know their reference numbers will recognize it as a stunning piece crafted from 18k white gold. It exudes a sense of understated luxury, appreciated by those in the know, while the unmistakable weight of precious metal serves as a constant reminder to the wearer of its presence on their wrist.
As part of the 2020 redesign, this latest generation of the Submariner slimmed down the lugs, delighting enthusiasts, and introduced the 3235 caliber to the Submariner Date. With a power reserve of 70 hours and enhanced resistance to magnetism, this movement upholds Rolex’s reputation for reliability.
OMEGA Speedmaster Olympic Games Collection Tokyo 2020 Ref. 522.30.42.30.04.001
Choosing a Speedmaster from the vast array of options available can be a daunting task. While the classic all-black Moonwatch should be at the top of anyone’s list, it’s hard to resist the allure of a Panda dial. Part of the Olympic Games Collection created for the Tokyo 2020 games, each of the five watches released represents a different color of the Olympic rings, with this particular model featuring the black ring.
The fundamental features of the watch align with what you would expect from any modern Speedmaster, including its twisted lugs and asymmetrical case—a design NASA requested to safeguard the lugs. The aluminum tachymeter bezel allows you to measure the speed of an object when utilizing the legendary Caliber 1861-powered chronograph. Departing from the traditional hippocampus caseback is a medallion showcasing the 2020 Olympics logo, offering an interesting historical element, considering that the Olympics were rescheduled to 2021 due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500
It’s a Daytona – enough said.
No watch is more highly sought after by both novices and experts alike. It has transcended the exclusive realm of watches and become widely recognized as the ultimate timepiece to own. This popularity has resulted in frustratingly long waitlists for prospective buyers. The 116500 was the first Daytona to feature a ceramic bezel, providing enhanced resistance to bumps and scratches compared to earlier versions with steel or aluminum bezels.
The often-underappreciated hero of the modern Daytona is the caliber 4130 movements inside. It is a vertical clutch column wheel movement known for its accuracy, durability, and slim profile, consisting of only 201 parts. This simplicity reduces the likelihood of issues and facilitates easier servicing. By contrast, the Omega 3861 movement in the Speedmaster has 240 parts and is manually wound, while the F.P. 1185, the smallest automatic chronograph movement, comprises 361 parts. The caliber 4130 enables the Daytona to maintain a reasonable profile of 12.5mm, just around 1mm more than the time-only Oyster Perpetual, enhancing its universal appeal as a comfortable and wearable timepiece.
To find your dream watch, go to the Hodinkee Shop.
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