Introducing: The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH — A Collector-Worthy Pilot’s Watch For The Maison’s 250th Anniversary
What We Know
As part of its 250th anniversary celebration, Breguet has taken flight once more — this time, over Manhattan. Following recent celebratory stops in Paris with the Classique Souscription and Shanghai with the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, the brand touched down in New York to unveil the new Type XX Chronographe 2075BH, a pair of manually wound, solid-gold chronographs that breathe fresh life into the pilot’s watch that once helped save the brand. And while last year’s steel Type 20 and Type XX marked the official relaunch of the collection, this release is something more personal — less a reboot, more a love letter.
The 2075BH collection introduces two references: one with a black anodized aluminum dial, the other with a limited edition of 250 in vertically brushed solid silver. Both watches feature a 38.3mm case made of “Breguet gold”, a proprietary alloy unveiled earlier this year with a warm, blonde tone that straddles yellow and rose gold. That size — and the use of a hand-wound movement — are direct callbacks to a 1955 civilian Type XX reference 1780 that now sits in the Breguet museum.
Inside, the new models feature an evolution of last year’s 5Hz caliber 728 chronograph movement, introduced in the 2023 steel reference. For the 2075BH, Breguet has developed two manually wound variants: caliber 7279 (black dial with a 15-minute counter) and caliber 7278 (silver dial with a 30-minute counter and tachymeter). Both movements retain flyback functionality, essential for aviation use, and are now adorned with a hand-engraved depiction of the Breguet 19 aircraft mid-flight across the Atlantic — a nod to the first Paris-to-New York flight in 1930 by aviators Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, who completed the flight in a Breguet-built aircraft.
That transatlantic achievement is the emotional heart of this release. The black dial is made of aluminum — a first for Breguet — and pays tribute to Louis Breguet’s pioneering work with Duralumin in aviation. The silver dial, by contrast, is marked “Ag925” and delivers a more classic elegance. Luminous Arabic numerals adorn the black variant, paired with the oversized minute register for a true military-derived utilitarian feel. Applied non-luminous Arabic numerals sit at 12 and 6 o’clock on the silver dial option, while pointed batons make up the remainder. Both are delivered with a matching gradient leather strap and red Moroccan leather box inspired by vintage packaging.
The black dial Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH is not a limited edition and will retail for $43,500, and the silver dial is limited to 250 pieces and carries a price tag of $45,200.
What We Think
To understand the new 2075BH, it helps to recall a duo of Breguet releases from two years ago. The 2023 steel Type 20 and Type XX models represented a significant reset for the line, carefully split into two distinct models — one patterned after a 1950s military-spec watch, the other based on a civilian version. Those models were larger at 42mm in diameter, automatic, and aimed squarely at bridging Breguet’s high-horology ethos with the mass appeal of its heritage design. They were seen as a stutter step in the right direction and helped to put the Type XX back in the spotlight, but left many collectors and enthusiasts wanting.
The thing is, the Type XX is an extremely important model in Breguet wristwatch history — arguably the most important. Starting in 1953, the brand would go on to produce approximately 2,000 examples of the military-spec Type 20 wristwatch and another 500 or so civilian Type XXs. In this period, Breguet’s annual wristwatch production was in the low hundreds, so 2,000 over the course of a few decades was a whole lot. Many believe the original Type 20 and the civilian Type XX are a large part of the reason Breguet exists today, with a continuous history back to its founding in 1775. A 250th anniversary wouldn’t feel quite as good if the brand disappeared for a while, would it?
The new-for-2025 gold 2075BHs are, for the most part, exactly what enthusiasts have wanted from a modern Type XX. This is Breguet in collector mode, refining the formula for a different kind of audience. The specs are all there — manually wound, check; sub 39mm case, check. And the aesthetics back up the specs too; just take a look at the numeral fonts in the outer track of the silver dial. Does it get much better than that for a vintage watch enthusiast?
At $43,500 and $45,200, respectively, these aren’t everyday pilots’ watches. They’re solid Breguet gold anniversary pieces. Story-driven, detail-oriented, and built for people who notice and care about the little things. Yet it doesn’t feel forced, it all serves the new positioning, feel, and attitude of Gregory Kissling’s Breguet — aptly timed respect for the brand’s rich history in the form of extremely compelling and collectible releases.
Our very own Mark Kauzlarich will be going Hands-On with this pair in short order. Here’s a live photo to hold you all over until then!
The Basics
Brand: Breguet
Model: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH
Diameter: 38.3mm
Thickness: 13.2mm
Case Material: 18k Breguet gold
Dial Color: Anodized aluminum, vertically brushed solid silver
Indexes: Applied luminous Arabic numerals, Applied Arabic 12 and 6 with pointed batons
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 50mm
Strap/Bracelet: Interchangeable gradient black or blue calfskin with 18k Breguet gold pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: 7279, 7278
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, flyback, 15-minute totalizer; hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, 30-minute totalizer,
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Manually-wound
Frequency: 5Hz
Additional Details: Flat silicon balance spring, inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Pricing & Availability
Price: $43,500 (black dial), $45,200 (silver dial)
Availability: Via Breguet boutiques
Limited Edition: No, yes of 250 pieces
For more, visit Breguet online.
Hodinkee
