Introducing: Merci Instruments Unveils A Quartet Of New LMM-01s
What We Know
Around the corner from Musée Picasso in Paris’ third arrondissement, you’ll spot what Arthur Gerbi, president of Merci, calls “the most photographed Fiat 500 in the world.” Just beyond that 499 cc, 18 horsepower machine lies Merci Paris, the retailer, gallery, studio, restaurant, and since 2017, a watch creator. Fans of Hodinkee should know Merci and its emblematic red Fiat, as we’ve partnered with them twice via our Limited Editions program, creating our own LMM-01 in 2020 and the Beaumarchais H02 in 2024.
Yesterday, Merci Instruments, the in-house brand for its watches, launched a series of four new versions of its LMM-01, a model with fans across the world, including your humble author. As a time-only watch, the core of the LMM-01 is simple, but Merci continues to offer distinct iterations on the theme, opening this type of watch up to a broader group of enthusiasts and watch wearers alike.
All four of the new options use the same 38mm in diameter by 9.55mm thick (including the domed sapphire crystal) stainless steel case. Details include a brushed finish throughout, drilled lugs, and a closed steel caseback. For the lug-to-lug fans out there, the LMM-01 checks in at 47mm. The movement inside is a Sellita SW210-1-b, a Swiss-made manually-winding caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Each of the four dials bears a name that evokes a certain — pardon the phrase — je ne sais quoi.
First, we have the least inventive in nomenclature, “The Dress Watch,” which intrigues me in every way outside of the name. Pointed baton indices call to dial designs of the 1930s and 40s, as does the not-quite-white printing, which evokes the feeling of silver “gilt” finishes of the same era. The black lacquered dial is complemented by thin sword-shaped hands sometimes referred to as “Slim-Bo.” A black cordovan leather strap completes the look.
“The Numerals” is the most classically elegant of the bunch. Understandably, Merci won’t name them directly, but most collectors know these numerals as Breguet numerals. By mentioning that The Numerals is meant to pay tribute to Swiss typefaces, the brand is possibly recognizing that the aesthetic was popularized by the Geneva-based dial-maker Stern Frères. The center dial portion is finished in a cream tone, and the outer section is lighter, almost white. Black syringe-style hands match the black cordovan leather strap to top it all off.
Showing the versatility of the LMM-01 case, the third variant, “The Militare,” leans into the functional tool watch elements of an all-brushed steel case with a stepped bezel. The light brown dial is complemented by faux patina tones in the hands and cardinal numerals. Referencing vintage models like the IWC Mark XI with touches of Panerai, the look is familiar but distinctly Merci with all the right font touches that collectors, knowingly or not, are drawn to.
The final option, “The Scientific,” is the most out there of the bunch. It is inspired by the Atomic Age with Bohr’s planetary model of an atom referenced in the dial design. Luminova pips serve as hour markers on the smaller inner dial and are subtly gold-toned. Dauphine hands with Luminova inserts fit the overall 1950s aesthetic nicely, and the black center seconds hand stands out well on the outer track. The Scientific will be produced in limited numbers.
As for price, The Dress Watch and The Numerals will sell for €420, while The Militare and The Scientific have a price tag of €390. All four are available via Merci’s website.
What We Think
As a proud owner of our Merci x Hodinkee limited-edition LMM-01, I must say that I am a massive fan of this model, particularly the case. While I have never attempted to do so myself, given what’s available in today’s market, it is abundantly clear that creating a properly sized and easy-wearing time-only watch is incredibly difficult. Therefore, when I experience a watch that nails this genre so exactly, be it over the years with my LMM-01 or minutes when trying one on, it sticks with me. The Goldilocks zone wrist feel of the LMM-01 should come as no surprise, though. The team at Merci is a relative outsider to the watch world and more so design than watch obsessives — that matters here. Unbound by the strict groupthink that seems to dominate watch design, Merci has created a perfect platform to iterate on with this model.
With a litany of dial options to attract almost any watch buyer or simply fill a hole in your weekly rotation, this new group is the most well-rounded we have seen from Merci since its first offering in 2017. Looking for a more specific use case or something to wow your collector WhatsApp group, I’d point you in the direction of The Militare or The Scientific. But if, like me, you’re generally drawn towards versatile watches you can take out of the watch box (or sock drawer) and wear for a few days until you want to shake things up — The Dress Watch and The Numerals are more for you.
If I’m picking favorites, I certainly lean toward The Dress Watch. It’s a sub-$500 stand-in for true connoisseur-level vintage watches from the likes of Patek Philippe, IWC, Longines, or Vacheron Constantin. You might be rolling your eyes at that list of names, but I truly think this is what makes Merci great. If you’re lucky enough to own one of the vintage pieces that inspire designs like this, the reality is that they are delicate and shouldn’t be worn in the manner in which they were originally designed. At the end of the day, this is a lower-priced watch with a manually wound Sellita movement, one of the easiest to service in the world. You can run a Merci into the ground if you so wish.
The Basics
Brand: Merci Instruments
Model: LMM-01 — The Dress Watch, The Numerals, The Militare, The Scientific
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 9.8mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black, Cream, Light brown, Silver
Indexes: Applied pointed batons, Applied Breguet numerals, Arabic numerals, Luminova pips
Lume: No, no, yes, yes
Strap/Bracelet: Black cordovan leather, black cordovan leather, brown box leather, black leather
The Movement
Caliber: Sellita SW-210-1-b
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Diameter: 25.6mm
Thickness: 3.35mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Manually-wound
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 19
Pricing & Availability
Price: €420, €420, €390, €390
Availability: Now.
Limited Edition: The Scientific, yes. All others, no.
For more, visit Merci online.
Hodinkee