Introducing: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (Live Pics And Pricing)
What We Know
Longines just launched the latest in the Spirit Zulu Time line — a two-tone take on the brand’s popular travel watch in a year that marks the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch that was capable of displaying two time zones. Aptly named the Spirit Zulu Time 1925, the new watch bears no resemblance to the vintage model referenced in its name, but carries on its legacy nonetheless with another entry in the brand’s 39mm travel watch collection.
In short, the biggest change seen in this latest variation of the 39mm Zulu Time is the bezel — a circularly brushed 5N 18k rose-gold capped bezel insert adds a big chunk of coppery sheen to accompany the stainless steel case. The twenty-four-hour numerals on the bezel are engraved, with no infill to create a more raw metallic look. This design choice, paired with the restraint of a completely brushed treatment, gives the watch a pleasing look on the wrist that scratches that itch for precious metal while still keeping the watch feeling relatively utilitarian.
A matte black dial is complemented by rose-gold-colored accents, found on the applied numerals, the handset, and dial print. One of my favorite design features from the Zulu Time is the chamfered metal ring connecting the diamond-shaped Super-LumiNova hour markers, adding a bit of depth to the dial as it catches the surrounding light. Five applied stars, a signature of the Zulu Time collection and probably the most critiqued aspect of the design, remain on the dial between “Zulu Time” and “Chronometer.” Subtly, underneath the date window at 6 o’clock, the years “1925 – 2025” are engraved in a quiet nod to the centennial celebration.
The case remains the same dimensions as the rest of the line, with a 39mm diameter, 13.5mm case height, and 46.7mm lug-to-lug. It’s complemented by a steel bracelet with polished chamfers in the middle and five points of microadjustment (a spring bar tool or toothpick is required), and an extra black NATO strap is included in the box. But those familiar with the Spirit Zulu Time may notice, when turning the watch over, that this 1925 edition features a sapphire caseback for the first time. The ETA-made Longines-exclusive flyer GMT caliber L844.4 is on full view, with a silicon balance spring, 72 hours of power reserve, and COSC certification. It’s the first time we’ve seen the rotor of this watch, which is PVD-coated in a rose gold color and engraved with a map of the world with a vertical indication for the Prime Meridian line.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is available through authorized retailers and is priced at $4,350.
What We Think
If you asked me to bet on where the Spirit Zulu Time line was going, this wasn’t at all where I expected the brand to take it. But all in all, this new 1925 is actually a very aesthetically pleasing watch. It’s an interesting way to experience a good bit of gold on a watch at this price point, and having the bezel insert be gold capped instead of gold plated makes all the difference. The hue of the rose gold is nice, very coppery, while not feeling overly saturated.
This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Longines give the Spirit Zulu Time a two-tone look — there currently exists a two-tone steel and yellow gold version, but the execution is a bit different with the gold capping on the crown and outer bezel and the insert staying in ceramic. The execution of the 1925 is much more appealing to my tastes, with the overall look feeling a bit more rugged without the gloss of ceramic.
Even better is the pricing compared to the yellow gold counterpart, which is something I don’t find myself saying a lot these days. While the Spirit Zulu Time in yellow gold cap is priced at $4,800, this new 1925 is quite a bit less at $4,350, even though this watch feels like it has more gold present on the watch. It’s an interesting effort, and if you’ve been dying for a splash of rose gold on your GMT, your prayers have been answered.
The Basics
Brand: Longines
Model: Spirit Zulu Time
Reference Number: L3.803.5.53.6
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 13.5mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet and extra black NATO
The Movement
Caliber: L844.4
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 VpH
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC-certified
Pricing & Availability
Price: $4,350
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
Hodinkee