Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on Milanese Link Bracelet
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a maker. Most obviously a watchmaker, yes, but in 2025, that word is thrown around to describe watch brands far too often, especially in direct comparison to JLC. We know the history, we know that JLC is “the watchmaker of watchmakers” — having supplied movements across the industry, sitting at the heart of many iconic models from competitors. But as the wider industry has moved to in-house production, the value of being a “real” manufacture has been bastardized. So much so that JLC, the one brand that should stand proudly on the laurels of its manufacturing abilities, has more often taken an approach of “show, don’t tell.”
Rather than solely tout its arguably industry-leading movement-making abilities and history, JLC quietly introduces watches like the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on a Milanese link bracelet — the ultimate reminder of the brand’s prowess as a maker. The watch is a not-so-subtle twist on the classic, dare I say iconic, Reverso Tribute we know and love, but the bracelet, oh the bracelet, is a work of art in and of itself. Woven, stamped, and hand-soldered link by link, JLC’s Milanese bracelet is a showcase of craft — and perfectly timed for a market suddenly obsessed with bracelets.
If you’re reading Hodinkee, you likely don’t need a crash course on the Reverso’s history, but as it pertains to this watch, certain points of context are useful. Yes, this design and family of watches dates back to 1931, when it was created as one of the world’s first “sport” watches, meant for the wrists of polo players in British India. Many early examples, even those in a smaller size, intended for women, were produced in stainless steel, proudly emblazoned with “staybrite” on the caseback. The initial 1931 production run featured movements supplied by Tavannes, JLC, with a certified hit on its hands. It quickly developed a range of in-house calibers for the Reverso case, which was introduced in 1933.
The year 1933 is a big one in Reverso history, as the brand realized this design’s potential and implemented further craftsmanship in the Reverso. Engraved, enameled, and lacquered monograms, coats of arms, and emblems appear on the Reverso’s second face this year — the first step in the Reverso becoming a luxury offering.
Fast-forwarding about six decades (if you want the full Reverso story in between, check out this video), in 1991, celebrating the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, JLC rolled out the first in a set of six Reverso complications: power reserve and date (1991), tourbillon (1993), minute repeater (1994), chronograph (1996), Geographique (1998), and perpetual calendar (2000). These six complicated watches completed the Reverso’s journey into a true luxury product through which JLC would flex its watchmaking ability.
Born as an early sport watch and reimagined as a luxurious platform for complications, in the waning years, the Reverso has settled into being a bit of both. The last major inflection point to underline in the model’s history is the Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute To 1931 US Limited Edition from 2011. A long name for a simple watch, this is the Reverso that laid the foundation for the Tribute as we know it today — a respectful and modern reinterpretation of the original Reverso. This one is a longtime favorite of our very own Ben Clymer, who called it “simply what real watch guys want” back at release. Jay-Z went on to wear a pink gold variant on stage at Carnegie Hall in 2013.
In the current catalog, you’ll find complicated options from calendars to the new trébuchet hammer and crystal gong-equipped Tribute Minute Repeater alongside simple, steel, sportier options like the Tribute Monoface. New for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on its Milanese link bracelet completes the circle of what makes the Reverso so special today. It’s simple, reverent, luxurious, and full of craft, even without the presence of a complication.
The caliber 822, introduced in 1992, powers this latest Reverso. While some may critique it as dated, it’s worth remembering that JLC’s most revered caliber — the 920 — dates back to 1967 and still underpins some of watchmaking’s most iconic designs. The 822 is no less purposeful: explicitly shaped for the Reverso case, it features a 42-hour power reserve and is produced entirely in-house.
Completing a copacetic, overall monotone look is the pink golden-coloured dial with a textured, grained finish. The look is achieved via several stamping operations and does a nice job of toning down the watch’s overall look just enough. If JLC had opted for a more standard dial finish, like the sunray brushing of other Tribute Monoface options, the all-gold motif here could easily have been too much. For a watch that is proudly pink gold, the dial is soft and subtle, making it quite wearable.
The standard Tribute Monoface case has been slightly reworked here so that the bracelet appears to be integrated with the lugs, but the dimensions remain 45.6mm in height by 27.4mm wide and 7.56mm thick. On the wrist, much of the feel is tied up in the bracelet, but speaking only of the case, the dimensions are a bit of an oversell. I prefer a smaller watch and would happily wear this Reverso, though maybe it’s mostly to do with the incredible bracelet.
Two pink gold strands, totaling over 16 meters, are intricately woven to form the Milanese bracelet’s signature fabric-like texture — a structure known as prezza. Woven without interruption by a single artisan, the bracelet is then stamped and meticulously hand-soldered link by link. The result is a fabric-like slink on the wrist with enough structure not to feel loose while flexible enough never to kink. It does so much to turn the Reverso, firmly a strap watch to many, into a fully-fledged singular object. On the wrist, it is a dream. The polished sliding clasp is a smaller detail, which can be precisely adjusted to ensure a perfect fit. In cheaper, aftermarket Milanese-style bracelets, this sliding clasp typically can only be set in slots on the underside of the bracelet, whereas here it will catch and close in any location you so choose.
The bracelet, one that surely took a long time to develop and perfect, is aptly timed in a market that can’t seem to get enough of the 1960s and 1970s mesh and woven bracelet styles — a phenomenon that has been dubbed the “geezer watch” trend. While I wouldn’t peg the latest Reverso as a geezer watch, far from it actually, it cannot be ignored that watch enthusiasts are coming back around on this era — one that put bracelet-making craft at the heart of designs. Or if we go back even further, to the 1940s and 1950s, collectors are paying eye-watering prices for bracelets produced by Gay Frères to pair perfectly with their vintage pieces.
Competitors are taking notice of the bracelet-crazed watch enthusiast as well. At the same Watches and Wonders where JLC revealed this Tribute, Rolex introduced two new bracelets to its catalog: the Land Dweller’s Flat Jubilee and the 1908’s Settimo. As far as I know, this is the first time Rolex has added two new bracelet options in the same year. To complete the trend, Patek Philippe’s Ellipse ref. 5738/1R on a chain-style bracelet of 2024 must be mentioned.
Priced at $41,300, this new Reverso sits between the Rolex 1908 on Settimo ($35,900) and Patek Philippe’s Ellipse on a chain-style bracelet ($61,630). Within JLC’s catalog, it stands alone: the only all-gold bracelet offering without gemsetting. Albeit out of production, Cartier’s 2023 Privé Normale on the brick bracelet was offered at $46,400 in yellow gold.
Hodinkee
