Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold (Live Pics & Pricing)
What We Know
Daniel Roth’s revival began with the yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription, a quiet, confident, and very La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton-powered reentry into the world of extremely high watchmaking. That watch was sold via a souscription model, produced in a limited run of 20 pieces, and served as both a nod to the past and a technical statement of intent. That March 2023 release was followed by the rose gold Tourbillon in August of 2024, this being a “standard” version that was limited by production. Roth has rolled out the same playbook with the Extra Plat. The yellow gold Souscription version hit in January of this year, and now, roughly three months later, we have the rose gold follow-up.
The second watch in the second model line from the Roth redux, the Extra Plat in rose gold, has officially arrived. Now rendered in 5N rose gold and with roughly the same design, this “standard” Extra Plat will be made available through select retailers instead of the souscription model.
The silhouette remains the same — a 38.6mm by 35.5mm double ellipse case, a mere 7.7mm thick — and still unmistakably Daniel Roth. What changes is the tone and texture: the warmth of the 5N alloy softens the already elegant lines, while the new production strategy signals a gradual expansion of the brand’s presence. Also appealing to a wider audience is the now-open caseback. Sure, the original Roth referencing closed casebacks of both Souscription models are like catnip to “true enthusiasts,” but in 2025, if you’re going to put real effort into movement finishing, I do want to flip the watch over and have a look for myself.
Upon flipping the latest Extra Plat over, we’re greeted with the same caliber DR002 introduced last year — a manually-wound movement designed and finished under the guidance of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Built specifically for the Extra Plat and this double-ellipse case, the DR002 is everything we have come to expect from Roth. As for finishing, it’s quite evident even in photos that the rounded, polished anglage and sharp corners are only possible via handcraft. The Roth team put extra focus on the tactile feel of the winding click here. Having experienced the watch in person, I can say this effort was well worth it — the Extra Plat is a pleasure to wind.
The dial of the new Extra Plat Rose Gold is a real standout, even compared to the previous Extra Plat Souscription. Now quietly two-tone, it is produced in two parts and features hand-done guilloché. The base is a solid disc of white gold, meticulously hand-decorated with linear guilloché — a technique known as guillochage en ligne — that lends texture and calls back to vintage Roths. A 5N rose gold chapter ring encircles the dial, framing black Roman numerals. The hands, rendered in black-coated stainless steel, provide crisp contrast without resorting to lume. It’s an overall layered and brilliantly executed look.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold is a part of the brand’s, again, “standard” catalog. Production is not explicitly limited, and the price is CHF 49,000.
What We Think
The revival of Daniel Roth was frankly easy to be skeptical of when LVMH first announced the news in September of 2023. I was among that group, to be fair. As a fan of the vintage (or neo-vintage) Daniel Roth offerings, I wondered how a LVMH-fueled revival would fare in the mid-2020s. My preconceived notions have since turned into excitement. The more time I spend around the products coming out of La Fabrique du Temps, the more I am impressed.
Throughout, the details are just absolutely nailed. Yes, the core takeaway from this article is that there is a change in case material and subtle tweaks here and there. And yes, the rose and grey tones create a gorgeous product. However, the Extra Plat Rose Gold is also a continuation of Daniel Roth as a brand and a step toward building a serious catalog of offerings.
This is all intentional. It’s the same way Daniel Roth was built the first time around, starting in 1989 and through the early 1990s. Tourbillon in 1989, Extra Plat in 1990, then a Perpetual Calendar in 1991. It’s also the same way most independent watchmakers of this century have built; slowly, in a meticulous manner to get all the details right. When making watches at this level, you can’t throw a full catalog at the market in the first year. It just doesn’t make sense.
But what are those details? Seeing the watch in person is the best way to appreciate what the new Roth is up to, but via photos, one can still appreciate the slightly reinterpreted case, where the midcase sits equally as far from the top as it does the bottom. This is a change from the vintage Extra Plat, where the top portion slightly outweighs the caseback. The change in the guilloché pattern is nailed, too. Roth used Clou de Paris (like on the Souscription version), but the vast majority of 1990s Extra Plat examples feature a straight pattern like the guillochage en ligne of this rose gold version. Decisions and references like this are easy to get wrong, but not here, not with Roth.
The Basics
Brand: Daniel Roth
Model: Extra Plat Rose Gold
Reference Number: DBBD01A1
Case Dimensions: 38.6mm (length), 35.5mm (width)
Thickness: 7.7mm
Case Material: 5H rose gold
Dial Color: Solid white gold base with linear guilloché, 5N rose gold chapter ring
Indexes: Black Roman numerals
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin leather strap, 20mm lug width
The Movement
Caliber: DR002
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Manufacture manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 49,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
Hodinkee
